Ed's Corner

The Murphy Vostok Bezel Review

2012-01-05T14:02:00.010-05:00

I don't believe I've ever done a review for a watch part before (bracelets aside) but it had to happen sooner or later I suppose so here goes.

If you are a fan of Russian watches and Vostok Amphibias in particular, you are probably already aware of one of the more irritating characteristics of the watch. That would be the stock bezel. In almost all respects, Vostok did a splendid job on the Amphibia. It has a stainless steel case, a rugged automatic movement that can hand wind, an acrylic crystal that can be polished free of scratches very easily and, best of all, a very low price. One of the few details that is sub-par on the Amphibia is the stock bezel (the other being the lume which is awful). The standard Vostok bezel is a piece of chrome plated brass with painted accents. It looks pretty good and functions acceptably but, like anything made of brass, it scratches very easily. Until recently, the only option for us Vostok fans with damaged bezels was to procure a factory replacement part. That's not the case anymore.

Murphy Manufacturing, run by Dave Murphy, has come up with a terrific replacement bezel for the Amphibia. Unlike the original, Murphy's bezel is a beautifully solid piece of stainless steel that fits the Amphibia's case flawlessly. The machine work on this part is really very well done. Its so good, in fact, that I wish Vostok would just subcontract the bezel part of their business to Murphy. He really does a significantly better job.

The Murphy bezel does not ship with a bezel insert (the black part in the images above). That can be obtained from a variety of sources that sell Seiko 007 diver bezel inserts (I got mine here) The bezel fits on the Amphibia (or Komandirskie I suppose) using the same bezel wire that the stock unit is secured with. In terms of dimensions, the Murphy bezel sits a little higher than the stock unit. In the side by side shot above (the original bezel equipped model is on the right), you can see the difference between the stock bezel and the Murphy replacement. The increased height is needed to accommodate a bezel insert.

Overall, the Murphy bezel is a real home run. It addresses one of the big weaknesses in Vostok's design in a very elegant way. The whole character of the Amphibia is remarkably enhanced by this seemingly small change. The Murphy bezel can be obtained by contacting Dave Murphy at Murphy Manufacturing Co. . If you collect Vostoks, treat yourself to one of these.

Poljot Kirova Chronograph Reissue Review

2011-11-28T21:19:00.004-05:00

It is with a bittersweet feeling that I find myself writing this review. Word is now trickling out that Maktime, the successor entity to Poljot that manufactured the 3133chronograph movement, has gone bankrupt. Unless some white knight arrives to either bail them out or buy the tooling for the movement, the 3133 is no more. While there is an apparently ample supply of 3133 chronographs on the world wide tag sale, once that supply is gone, that's it.

Ah well (sniff...), on to the watch. The Kirova chronograph in this review is one of several different reissue models of the original First Moscow Watch Factory Kirova chronograph. This particular example is one of the largest cased models of the Kirova reissues. It measures 42 mm in width (45 mm including the crown), 14 mm in height, 50 mm lug to lug and has a 20 mm band lug width. Most of the other Kirova reissues I've seen are typically 40mm in width.

Visually, this watch seems to combine the face design of the 1940's vintage one button chronograph with the two button control layout of the 1950's vintage Urofa powered chronographs. Despite appearances, only the hands on this model are lumed. The numbers, while colored as if painted with radium, do not glow in the dark. The case is matt finished stainless steel and the crystal is mineral glass. The case back and crown screw down and the watch is rated at 5 atm water resistance (which I would take with a grain of salt frankly). The original leather band was of indifferent quality so I replaced it with a padded Hirsch model.

Internally, this Kirova is powered by the venerable 3133 23 jewel hand-wound chronograph movement. The 3133 is a Russian made version of the earlier Swiss Valjoux 7734. The Russians bought the rights to the movement from the Swiss, raised the jewel count from 17 to 23 and increased the beat rate. It has served as the standard Russian chronograph movement for roughly the last 35 years. The 3133 is generally regarded as a fairly rugged movement (as mechanical chronos go) and it is known for it long 50+ hour power reserve.

I personally find this watch to be very attractive. The face and hands exhibit an old style charm that I don't encounter often these days. I think I would have preferred it if the designers had left off the date window but I can certainly live with it. I picked this example up a few years ago (when Russian chronographs were absurdly affordable) but I still see this model new on eBay from time to time. I think it's a keeper.

Leather Nato

2011-10-24T13:00:00.008-04:00

I've been trying to find a strap that I liked for this Adi for a few years now. I think I've hit on a winner. The leather Nato above was procured from Nilsen's ebay watch band store (Randy passed away a few years ago but his wife now runs the place). Nice to see that the selection is still good and that the prices remain very reasonable. I think I paid about $26 shipped. Not bad at all.

Uzi Ballistic Long Term

2011-09-14T23:30:00.001-04:00

The Uzi Ballistic has been my designated beater for about two years now. I have really made no effort to baby this watch. It's been dropped, banged around, immersed and generally worn with complete disregard for niceties very regularly. Except for a small scuff on one of the lugs, it looks very good and runs perfectly. I recently learned from one of my readers that the Ballistic has a ten year lithium ion battery in it. Given how tough it seems to be, that bodes well for the next eight or so years.

Test post

2011-09-08T18:26:00.001-04:00

Trying out Google's iPhone blogger app.

TW Steel Icon Review

2011-07-21T21:50:00.010-04:00

Its been a while since I bought a watch based on looks alone. In fact, I can safely say I had not done so since I began seriously collecting watches ten or so years ago. Well, there has to be an exception to every rule and that exception is the TW Steel model you see above. Fair warning, this review may read a bit like a travel gazetteer.

A little background first. For our twentieth wedding anniversary, my wife and I decided to travel to Montreal. Neither of us had ever been to Canada before and, since we weren't traveling with the kids for the first time (Yippie!!), it seemed prudent to stay close enough that we could get back to NYC quickly if need be. Montreal, if you haven't been there, is a fascinating city. There is a lot of very interesting history there. The scenery around the city in the Laurentian Hills is very beautiful, the underground city is genuinely remarkable, you can rent bicycles all over the place, and, despite the prevalence of French as a language, everyone was friendly and spoke English as well. ( I can speak a little French which was helpful at times but was by no means necessary) . The city has a very European character in many ways. There are brands and signage that we Americans don't usually see. Restaurants are both varied in national cuisines and plentiful. Lots of good shopping can be found. There are apparently more churches here than in Rome. All in all, Montreal struck us as a friendly and prosperous place with a lot to offer. We are already planning our return, this time with the kids.

What I didn't know is that Montreal seems to have a nice watch shop every few blocks. Even the small towns in the Laurentian Hills had some very nice stores. For a watch collector, this place is very nice indeed. In addition to the usual Tissots and Omegas and the like, there were brands available that I was aware of but don't really see in the States all that often. One store I stumbled on to carried a nice selection of Briel watches, while two others carried the Netherlands brand TW Steel.

TW Steel (The Watch in Steel) is a relatively new brand dating from 2005. They are located in Amsterdam and specialize in big to very big watches. Styles are very interesting ranging from conventional chronographs to aviators like the one above to huge 50mm models with canteen crowns. Movements run the gamut from quartz to ETA 2836-2 automatics. All of their models seem to feature a heavy, nicely machined stainless steel case in one of several finishes. Their leather bands are all very well done. The leather is in the 3-4mm thick range and the buckles are both solid and engraved. Bracelets appear to be all solid link and well made too. Crystals are mineral, some with sapphire coating. Many of their models have an auto racing theme and the company is apparently working with the Renault racing team.

The TW Steel Icon model you see above is sort of their entry level model. Visually, the Icon is a strikingly attractive watch to my eye. It is an aviator style watch with a 45mm stainless steel case (not including the big crown btw), a 22mm band lug width and a beveled mineral glass crystal. The Icon's caseback is nicely decorated and screws down. The movement is a Miyota 2415 3 hand quartz with a date function, a solid and reliable engine if not an exotic one. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters which is fine as this isn't a diver watch. The crown does not screw down (which actually doesn't bother me that much anymore as I've had the pleasure of stripping a screw-down crown recently) and the dial has no lume (Which I prefer to crappy lume anyway. If it ain't Seiko style superluminova or tritium tubes, don't bother).

I like this watch because it has that classic aviator watch look without the huge price tag. (Yes, I know that there are Chinese aviator watches with mechanical movements available for less than the $200 that this one cost me but their quality and overall feel aren't even close to the TW Steel's). I'm not prepared to drop $800+ dollars for a mechanical aviator and, frankly, I'm a little gun-shy about wearing one of those anyway as I've already had one spit blood on me (That's a story for another day). The Icon's rugged quartz movement should have no such issues. The watch has a nice heft to it and the overall quality feel is enhanced by the thickness of the leather band. The dial is very simple and easy to read and the dark hands offer excellent visual contrast. The date window is clear and easy to read despite the lack of a cyclops magnifier (which I think would detract from the look of the watch anyway).

If you are a fan of the Laco/IWC Fleiger watch look but want a more practical and affordable variant that is still solidly built, the TW Steel Icon deserves a good look. For what it's worth, it is one of the few watches I own (and I own just a few you know) that my wife really likes.

P.S.-I picked up this example at Poussiere de Diamants, a jewelry and watch store in St. Sauveur in the Laurentian Hills. Very nice folks with a good selection of both TW Steel watches as well as other brands. TW Steel watches include a 2 year warranty.

Rubber Bands

2011-06-30T12:31:00.013-04:00

An Uzi Protector on a stock rubber band

A Seiko Tuna Can on its stock Seiko rubber band

A Debaufre Ocean 1 on a Modena band

A Debaufre Aircraft 8 on a Modena band

An Adi mil-watch with an integrated rubber band

An Uzi Ballistic on its stock rubber band

A modern Amphibia on a Modena band

A late eighties vintage Vostok Amphibia on an unusual stock Vostok rubber band with integral compass

A Seiko Landmonster on a stock Seiko rubber band

An Adi ana-digi diver on a Modena rubber band

As much as I like a well made leather watch band, there is no getting aound the sticky reality that they don't wear very well in hot or humid climates. For those of us who live in places with regularly changing seasons, this reality has created a little ritual every spring where the leather bands that held our watches so nicely during the fall and winter are removed an replaced with hot weather alternatives.

Now, if you want to spend some money and you have a watch that would appropriately benefit from an investment, get a nice solid link stainless steel bracelet. I've written several reviews where the benefits of a good bracelet are discussed. However, as the name of this review above suggests, there is another alternative for hot weather that works really well too. This is, of course the rubber (or silicon) band. This style of watchband is commonly offered as a standard accessory with many diver watches but, thanks to a variety of new designs, rubber bands can be retro fitted to just about anything these days. It doesn't hurt that the price of admission is also, generally speaking, very low.

In the photos above, there are a number of watches that either came stock with rubber bands or were fitted with them by me for hot weather wear. A well made rubber watch band is completely waterproof, light in weight and pretty durable. Sweat, water and grime should have no effect on them at all.

My favorite supplier of aftermarket rubber watchbands is Modena Watch Company (I have no connection to them if you are wondering). They have a wide variety of different bands available, and their prices are usually under $20. If one of your favorite watches is regularly sidelined for fear of ruining its leather band, an inexpensive rubber alternative is a no-brainer.

Seiko Landmonster SNM037 Review

2011-05-14T13:31:00.008-04:00

On a WJean mesh bracelet

First off, let me start by saying that I don't particularly like the SNM037's accepted nickname, Landmonster. It sort of implies, to me at least, that the watch is not meant for the water. As this is a diver's watch with a 200 meter water resistance rating, I think a more descriptive nickname is called for. Additionally, with the exception of the hands, there is little that this watch shares with the SKX779 Monster. If I was going to nickname a diver with a built-in compass, I'd call it the navigator. However, since Landmonster is the name that seems to have stuck, I'll use it here too.

As anyone who owns a Seiko diver knows, Seiko has really just about perfected the concept and execution of the affordable mechanical dive watch. Like the Monster itself or the 007 or the 009, the Landmonster exudes that classic Seiko diver feel that suggests not only very high quality and durability but a price that you would think is a lot higher than it actually turns out to be. That Seiko can continue to hit one home run after another the way they do with these diver watches suggests a well oiled design and production system. The result of this team's work has allowed millions of ordinary folks worldwide to enjoy the experience of owning a quality made mechanical wristwatch. Here's hoping for many more such winners.

The Landmonster is a strikingly unique looking diver's watch. From it's large thick case design to it's two large crowns and it's rotating bezel, no one is likely to mistake this big Seiko for anyone else's creation. As for the nitty gritty, the watch measures 47mm from the bezel to the widest part of the crown guard (43mm without the crowns/guard), 51mm lug to lug, 16mm in width and a 20mm band lug width. In a nice touch that greatly facilitates switching bands, the lugs are drilled. (Seiko also includes a set of its very thick Monster/Tuna style spring bars. I wish the rest of the industry would switch to these. They are the best spring bars by far in my opinion) The crystal is Seiko's proprietary Hardlex and the bezel is counter rotating with a firm precise action. The lume on the dial and hands is Seiko's typically excellent Lumibrite. Overall, I'd rate the lume as better than the 007 but not quite at the Monster's level. That, of course, still makes nighttime visibility for the Landmonster better than just about anything short of a Monster or a tritium tube watch. (I've heard that the Seiko "Spork" has terrific lume that matches the Monster now.)

No discussion of the Landmonster would be complete without some time spent talking about it's most unusual feature, those twin crowns. The 2 o'clock crown is a conventional diver's watch crown. It screws down and sets the time and date. It is large and easily gripped but, otherwise, it is ordinary. The second crown, however, is interesting. Like the upper crown, it too screws down. When opened though, it serves to adjust the internal chapter ring surrounding the dial. That chapter ring has directional markers on it. The Landmonster, you see, is designed to take advantage of a little known trick that allows a watch to work like a compass. In the northern hemisphere, if you point the hour hand at the sun, and then adjust the chapter ring so that South sits exactly between the hour hand an the 12 o'clock mark, the chapter ring will now be showing a correct compass bearing. In the morning hours put the South marker to the left of the 12 mark, in the afternoon, to the right of it. Obviously, this trick doesn't work at night or if it is cloudy out but, otherwise, if you live in the northern hemisphere, this watch is a compass as well as a fine diver's watch. I do have one minor quibble with this system. The screw down crown on the compass ring does not lock the ring when tightened. It isn't a problem really but the chapter ring will move a little throughout the day when worn. I can live with that just fine but it might bother some folks.

Internally, the Landmonster is powered by Seiko's 7s35 23 jewel automatic movement. The 7s35 is a derivation of Seiko's very popular 7s26 movement. It differs in that it has two more jewels and no day complication. Otherwise, like the 7s26, the 7s35 neither hacks or handwinds (the automatic winder does the job of powering the watch) and is both reasonably accurate and quite durable. 7s series movements are generally reputed to be very long lasting, in part because they lack hacking and hand winding hardware and the wear and tear they cause.

Overall, the Landmonster is no one's idea of a dress watch. As a casual/sport watch though, it is superb. Prices on the Landmonster are all over the place from what I've seen. Expect a good deal in the low $200 range with retail in the $400 area (as of 5/11). Visually the Landmonster has the same sort of "wrist presence" that a Seiko Tuna Can has. That, in my opinion, it's big appeal. It is so large and uniquely styled that, if you like divers, it is really worth a serious look. It's build quality is excellent and, it works well on both the stock rubber diver's band or a nylon Zulu band. Another version of this watch, the SNM035 comes with a solid link bracelet. (I have a mesh bracelet on the way from Wjean. That is a combo I've been looking forward to trying out.) What it certainly is not, is dull.

Ed's Corner-The Book

2011-04-23T17:33:00.001-04:00

If you like the Russian watch reviews here, I have compiled and edited them in an ebook. For more information, see here.

The Last Bargain: NOS Poljot 3133 Chronograph Review

2011-04-23T17:23:00.005-04:00

Let me begin by stating that the title of this review is a bit misleading. The watch you see above is probably not the very last inexpensive new old stock (NOS) Poljot chronograph floating around on the world wide tag sale. If you are patient and look hard enough, others can be probably be found. That being said, however, inexpensive Poljot 3133s are nowhere near as common as the were a few years back. Frankly, you are far more likely to find a new Volmax with this movement (or one derived from it) on the high side of $500 nowadays. It's a shame that truly cheap 3133 powered chronographs are becoming scarce but I suppose the party had to end sooner or later. With the dollar as weak as it is now (circa 2011) and the reality that the 3133 is a terrific movement that is really worth a fair price, I'm really quite happy that I found this one for only $159.00.

The watch arrived, new in the box, with the tag still on and without a band. To be honest, the lack of a band didn't bother me as Russian leather bands have generally been a disappointment every time I've encountered them. The example you see above currently resides on a beautiful Hirsch Trapper that I picked up from Watchprince a few years back. It's a nice soft padded leather band that, I think, compliments the watch nicely. The watchcase itself measures 39 mm in width (42mm with the crown) 45mm lug to lug, has an 18mm band lug width and is 12mm in thickness. It appears to be made of chrome-plated brass with a snap-on stainless steel case back. The crystal is a domed type made of acrylic. Water resistance is not stated so I would assume little to none in this category. Lastly, there is no lume whatsoever on the hands or watch face. That's ok with me as this is clearly a dress style watch. This particular example was produced after the wall came down. The included paperwork states that the watch was manufactured in 1996. That is consistent with the "Made in Russia" mark at the six o'clock point on the dial. Earlier models would have been marked CCCP.

Internally, this Poljot is powered by a 23 jewel model 3133 hand-wound movement. The 3133 is based on the Swiss Valjoux 7734. Back in the seventies, the Russians purchased the tooling from the Swiss for the 7734, made a few modifications, and produced the 3133. (The Russians raised the jewel count from 17 to 23 and increased the bph (beats per hour) from 18000 to 21600 among other things.) The 3133 is a well regarded movement that is known for it's long power reserve per wind and relative ruggedness as mechanical chronographs go. Despite the age of the design, it is still in production today and is often found in watches that cost many times what the model above ran me.

The watch itself works flawlessly. The winding mechanism is very smooth and the chronograph starts, stops and resets to zero perfectly. (On a 3133, you start and stop the chronograph with the two o'clock button and reset the hands with the 4 o'clock button. Do not press the 4 o'clock button while the chronograph hands are running. You can damage the movement that way.) The watch is not considered very large by today's standard but, for a dress watch, that's good in my opinion. The combination of the shiny chrome plated case and the silver finished hands produce an elegant and classic look, I think, that goes well with a suit or in an office environment.

If you are interested in acquiring an inexpensive mechanical chronograph, I highly recommend these Poljot 3133s. The movement itself has withstood the test of time nicely and remains a popular little engine today. That new examples now command fairly high prices is a testament to the quality of the design. Better still, if you can locate an inexpensive new old stock model like the one above, you'll be getting a bargain to boot. Don't wait too long if you want one of these though. There really aren't that many low priced examples out there anymore.

Finally got this old 2409 together

2011-03-12T23:19:00.007-05:00

The movement in this Vostok case, a 2409 stemwinder, has resided in an old tonneau case that I had lying around. It looked good but the build wasn't correct. The tonneau case was generally built with the older 2209 movement, not the more modern 2409. The setup you see above is what it should look like. The watch case outwardly resembles a modern Vostok Amphibia but, on closer examination, you might notice it is thinner and has a flatter case back. That's because this was an earlier breed of Amphibia that was designed to use the 2409 manual wind movement, not today's 2416b automatic that is found in the current Amphibias. The dial case combination above is correct to the best of my knowledge. I have seen two other examples of this style for sale on the world wide tag sale which lends credence to the notion that it should look this way. Irrespective, the finished result is very handsome in my opinion and keeps time flawlessly. I may even treat this one to a re-lume job one of these days.

Vostok Generalskie Desert Shield edition

2011-02-24T16:56:00.005-05:00

The Desert Shield Generalskie represents a fascinating piece of history between the United States and the Soviet Union. Here is a Russian made Vostok watch, the standard supplier to the Red Army, building a watch for the U. S. Army during Operation Desert Shield. As I understand it, some 200,000 pieces were ordered for sale. The watches were advertised in Stars & Stripes, the U.S. military's newspaper, at $99 for service personnel or $149 for everyone else. The distributor reportedly presented one of these watches to then President Bush and another to Senator Kerry. Several different cases and movements were employed by this series of watch. To the best of my knowledge, there was the Generalskie model you see above, an Amphibia, a Komandirskie and a mini Komandirskie. Movements apparently varied from the old 21 jewel 2416b to the 2409 and the 2414a, I believe. For more information, see this excellent post at the Military Watch Forum.

The Generalskie model above uses a case style that has unfortunately been discontinued by Vostok. It outwardly appears similar to Komandirskie models of the period except that the case is significantly larger than the bezel. Like the Komandirskie, the case is made of chrome plated brass and features Vostok's signature acrylic crystal and wobbly screw-down crown. This particular example came to me by way of eBay. It was advertised as being new old stock (NOS) but in fact had a scratched bezel and lug. I fortunately had another bezel of the same design to replace the damaged one and a little of my wife's clear nail polish should protect the exposed base metal on the lug hopefully. Such is life when shopping on the bay. Caveat emptor.

Aside from these issues, the watch appears to be running fine. Accuracy seems to be in the typical Vostok range of 20 seconds or so deviation per day. Not bad for a 20 yr old mechanical watch in my opinion. The old style Generalskie case goes well with today's large watch trend. It measures 45mm in width (including the crown), 48mm lug to lug and uses Vostok's standard 18mm band lug width. The stock leather band had dried out and become quite brittle so I replaced it with a padded leather Hirsch band that suits it quite nicely.

I am quite happy to own this historically interesting watch. It represents a brief moment in time when two old enemies found some common ground between them. It would have been most interesting indeed if the cooperation that this watch represents could have continued and strengthened over time. Who knows what sort of world we would be living in now?

The Vostok Komandirskie Revisited

2011-02-01T08:58:00.025-05:00

On the Brown leather replacement band

Freshly unwrapped on the original black band

It's been a few years since I did a review of a new Vostok Komandirskie. I was curious to see if much had changed since the last time I picked up one of these. When this one became available, I took the plunge so to speak. (For what it's worth, buying a Vostok is never much of a plunge, financially that is. This model appears on Zenitar's ebay store from time to time for less than $50). The example above has the insignia of the Russian Space Forces launch crew as I understand it. There are pictures of it aboard the International Space Station which was enough to get me interested. I'm pleased to see that the Komandirskie is still a solidly made mechanical watch that sells for a bargain price.

The Komandirskie these days is still powered by Vostok's 2414A 17 jewel stemwinder movement with a date display and a screw-down crown. The 2414A has an excellent track record for durability and acceptable accuracy. The case is still made from chrome plated brass and the caseback is still the Vostok 2 piece stainless steel water resistant design. (Note-Water resistant means washing your hands, rain and maybe immersion to a depth of one or two meters. For diving, go with a Vostok Amphibia. It is rated at 200 meters water resistance and is more robustly made. For a good article describing the differences between the Komandirskie and the Amphibia see this post at Watchuseek.com Another terrific Vostok article can be found here). In common Vostok fashion, the caseback is intricately decorated, this model sports the Imperial Russian 2 headed Eagle (Symbolizing the Tzar's role as head of church and state I believe).

The Komandirskie still uses a domed acrylic crystal. The choice of acrylic has the disadvantage in that it can scratch fairly easily. However, unlike glass, it is very shatter resistant and scratches can be polished out with a cotton ball and a little toothpaste from time to time as needed. (There are proper watch crystal polishes available that do a better job if you are interested. Crystal Clear and Polywatch work very well).

In typical Vostok fashion, the stock watch band is of so-so quality. I replaced it with one from Nilsen's ebay store (I recall that Randy Nilsen sadly passed away a few years ago. I believe his wife now runs the place). In the past, Vostoks were usually sold without bands in a plain plastic box. The buyer was expected to pick a band that suited them. I personally believe that Vostok hasn't quite gotten the stock watch band idea yet. They really should ship a better quality band. It would do a lot for their overall image.

Vostok's Komandirskie line is something of a design classic these days. It has been around since the 1960's, I believe, and is still largely made the same way. While the Komandirskie was originally marketed to the Soviet military, Vostoks are now popular in civilian markets as well. It is true that one could certainly quibble that chrome plated brass and acrylic crystals are not the latest or the greatest choices. That being said though, they are both quite durable and should last for years. Realistically, at the Komandirskie's price point, plastic cases and simple digital displays are more the norm. That Vostok can still produce a well made 17 jewel wristwatch for an affordable price is really quite remarkable. And that this example has a space program connection of sorts is just icing on the cake for me. Recommended.

Ode to the Seiko Diver

2010-11-10T14:29:00.004-05:00

I’ve owned quite a few watches through the years. I’ve had dress watches, mechanical chronographs, Swiss automatics, quartz watches with amazing features, solar charged watches, digital watches, military watches and divers. In almost every case, I found something to like. A few days ago though, I realized that of all the watches I own, there were a few “go to” pieces that seemed to get the most wrist time. Those would be the Seiko divers.

I thought about why these particular models were so often the choice of the day and a few observations came to me. First and foremost, they are very tough watches. You don’t really have to think about what you are doing when wearing a Seiko diver. Between their water resistance and the overall ruggedness of their build, it isn’t easy to hurt one of these. When a day out with the kids turns into a day at the pool or beach, a Seiko diver is always game. The reality that you don’t have to baby these watches makes the choice to put one on a no-brainer.

Beyond their ruggedness though, a Seiko diver has a particular look and feel to it. The models I have owned have all exuded a quality that belies their relatively low price. Throughout several of the Seiko reviews that I have written, the comment that they seem more expensive than they are keeps popping up. There are many cheap things in this world that regularly scream at you how cheap they are. Especially as time with them passes. Seiko divers say exactly the opposite. They are an amazing value for the money and they age gracefully even when worn hard.

I can honestly say that if I could own only one watch, either the Monster, 007 or Tuna Can would be it. They are simply that well done.

Vostok Combos

2010-07-04T12:47:00.012-04:00

One of the more entertaining (and at times, irritating) parts of collecting Russian watches is finding replacement bands for them. As those of us who collect Vostoks know, the factory bands and bracelets are, generally, pretty bad. The old bracelets were terrible hair pullers and the leather bands were of awful quality (if they were even made of leather at all). Lately, the stock bracelets have improved somewhat in quality but they are still nothing to write home about. The trick when looking for replacements though is to find an acceptable solution that doesn't cost more than the watch itself. Given that most Vostoks can be had for less that $70, this can be a bit of a challenge at times.

The three examples shown above illustrate a few of the solutions I have found. In the foreground, the blue Amphibia is shown on a tan nato. This is one of the most popular and affordable replacement solutions for a Vostok. Nato bands will fit virtually any size wrist, are inexpensive, and are pretty durable. The Ministry Amphibia and the Radio Room commemorative edition both sport inexpensive replacement bracelets from ebay. Each cost in the $10-$20 range if I recall correctly. Neither is a solid link design but their overall quality is considerably better than the factory models. I would rate them about equal to the folded link bracelets that Seiko uses on low end "5" models.

There are many possible ways to refit a Vostok with a decent band. Quality solid link designs are available on both ebay and from other sellers albeit at prices that generally exceed the price of the watch itself. That may be an acceptable compromise for some but, so far, I've avoided going that way. I recommend that Vostok collectors keep an open mind when searching for new band solutions. I've been pleasantly surprised more than once.

The Poor Man's Marinemaster aka SKX007 w/WJean Super Oyster Bracelet

2010-06-07T19:58:00.023-04:00

Welcome to the latest episode of the Recession Watch. While we all hoped this would be titled the Recovery Watch, lets face it, we're not there yet. So, the real Marinemaster will have to wait a while longer. That being said though, I really love the look and feel of a high end Seiko diver. Fortunately for us wallet challenged folks, there is a solution these days. The short answer is to get a Seiko SKX007 (or 009 if the Pepsi bezel is more your thing) and do a bracelet transplant. Now before I continue, Seiko does sell these models on stainless steel bracelets. I even reviewed one about five years ago . I wound up gifting that 009 to my brother-in-law because I just didn't like the bracelet. Don't get me wrong, the stock bracelet is ok. It is a solid link design with hollow end links. It worked just fine but it felt too light to balance the heavy 009 on my wrist comfortably. Thanks to developments in aftermarket bracelets, this issue has been addressed to my liking.

If you sniff around at the Seiko Citizen Watch Forum or on the Watchuseek Seiko Citizen forum, you will find many mentions of a "Super Oyster" bracelet for Seiko diver watches. The bracelet you see pictured above is one of them. WJean btw is short for ebay seller wjean28, from whom I got this one. As to what makes the super oyster bracelet such an improvement, here's the deal. The whole thing is much more heavily built than the stock model and the end links are thankfully solid. The bracelet employs thick screw pins (instead of split pins) and a flip lock clasp. The net result is a much beefier and less tinny package. Additionally, those solid end links will not warp over time as the hollow models I had on my 009 eventually did. WJean even included a set of extra thick spring bars (If you have seen the Seiko spring bars that the Monster or the Tuna come with, the replacements are like them). It should be noted that there are super oyster bracelets with hollow end links out there too. I believe that WJean sells them as well. I think that the links are still better than the stock bracelet but the end links are substantially the same. They cost less than the solid end link models though so that is something to consider too.

For what seems like a small cosmetic change, the super oyster bracelet really changes the character of the SKX007. What started out looking and feeling like a mid-range diver now feels like a much more expensive piece altogether. The new bracelet even includes a Seiko signed clasp although there is no diver's extension (not that I ever used the ones I have on other models).

The SKX007 itself is a terrific watch incidentally, super oyster or no. It's stainless steel case meassures 42mm in width (not including the 4 o'clock crown), 13mm in height, 47mm lug to lug and has a 22mm band lug width. Internally it is powered by Seiko's durable 7s26 automatic movement. The watch does not hack or hand wind if that matters to you (hey it has to be different from a Marinemaster somewhere, right). That being said, a quick shake will power the watch up immediately and the power reserve after a day's wear seems to be at least 35-40 hours. The crown screws down and the water resistance is rated at 200 meters. Seiko's lume is generally very good and the 007 is no exception. It isn't quite in a Monster's league but it's no slouch either. The bezel is counter-rotating with a firm action and it includes an embedded luminous marker of it's own. The crystal is made of Seiko's proprietary Hardlex, a hardened glass that sort off splits the difference in scratch resistance between sapphire (great) and conventional glass (eh). As sports watches go, the 007 is well designed to handle the abuse that diving/water sports dish out and looks terrific to my eye as well.

The bottom line (and that is the whole point of this review) is that for about $230, I now have a Seiko automatic diver that looks and feels like a watch that costs at least double that price. It's so good in fact that I personally think that Seiko should really consider doing its customers a favor and either contract with folks like WJean to offer this option or just release it themselves. Until that happens though, head over to the global tag sale and ring up a super oyster of your own for a 007/009. Frankly, even if you are flush with cash, it's still worth doing. P.S. I picked up this 007 here on a rubber strap in contemplation of getting this bracelet for it. I couldn't be more pleased with the result.

Reactor Gamma Titanium Review

2010-05-04T22:31:00.032-04:00

Well, as much as I liked the Reactor Fallout (reviewed below), my son liked it even more. It's a pretty fancy watch for a teenager, I think, but he's a good kid so why not. That decision, however, left me with a conveniently empty slot to fill in the watch box. And, since I was quite impressed with the Fallout, I figured I'd give another Reactor a try.

Reactor, as I mentioned in the Fallout review, has stated that their mission is to build the best sports watches available anywhere period. The model you see above is the new titanium version of the company's Gamma model. This is my first titanium watch and, I've got to admit, I like this metal. Titanium is pretty nifty stuff. It is very strong and yet both light weight and corrosion resistant. From what I've read, it's strength is about equal to that of steel but at half the weight. As such, a big watch like the Gamma feels very light and comfortable on the wrist. The metal also has a unique color to it that immediately differentiates it from steel. I now understand why titanium watches are considered desirable.

Aside from Reactor's choice of materials, this version of the Gamma has a lot of other good stuff going for it. For starters, it is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters. That is a serious depth rating. Clearly, water is not going to be a problem here. (Like the Fallout, the Gamma also features Reactor's unusual crown seal. Even if left unscrewed for some odd reason, it is still water resistant to 100 meters. Good insurance I guess.) The watch also employs Reactor's solid screwbar system to attach the bracelet to the watchcase. This system is reportedly at least five times stronger than springbars. The screwbars are set in neoprene bushings, I believe, to keep them from unscrewing accidentally. The bracelet (also titanium btw) is an all solid link design with a locking clasp. Aside from looking good, it's quite light and comfortable too, not a "hair puller" thankfully. Additionally, the watch features a Miyota 2S65 movement which has a 10 year battery life. That goes a long way towards addressing one of my complaints with the battery life of many quartz watches. Other features include a rotating uni-directional bezel (with a very bright embedded lume marker), an anti-reflective coated crystal and a screw-down crown. The exterior dimensions of the Gamma are 45.5mm in width, about 14mm in thickness, and 53mm lug to lug.

The real standout feature of the Gamma is the lume system that Reactor uses. As readers of this site probably know, I'm a big fan of quality lume on a watch. Whether I'm traveling or just putting a watch on my nightstand, I find it very helpful to be able to read the time in the dark. Quality lume these days usually means either superlumimova or tritium tubes. Both have their strengths and weaknesses. Superluminova is a light activated paint that, once charged, glows very brightly at first and dims over several hours. Tritium tubes are a self powered lume system that consist of small glass vials filled with radioactive tritium gas. (Radiation is not a danger from this system by the way . Tritium is not a strong radiation source to begin with and the vials that hold it are more than capable of blocking any emissions). Tritium tubes are very clearly visible in darkness but don't really glow all that brightly. With the titanium Gamma, the folks at Reactor took a best of both worlds approach and used superluminova and tritium tubes. They call this combo their NeverDark system (thus the letters "ND" on the watch face). The result is a remarkable lume method that really performs as advertised. The tritium tubes are set at the 3,6,9 and 12 positions on the watch face and on the hour and minute hands. (It you’re interested, Reactor uses MB Microtec tubes). The superluminova is applied to the hour markers on the face and to the triangular ends of the three hands. It is my understanding that reactor applies an unusually thick eight layer coat of superluminova to their watches. It shows nicely. The net effect of this combination system is a watch that can be read clearly in any light conditions. That is an impressive achievement and Reactor is to be commended for coming up with this system.

In my opinion, the Gamma Titanium is a really terrific piece. Between the solid build quality and the use of titanium coupled with the amazing lume, you can't go wrong with this one. Add in the ten year battery life and this model should give trouble free service for a very long time. At $550 (retail) the Gamma titanium isn't cheap but, considering it's feature set, I think it's well worth it. There are plenty of fancy named watches out there that cost significantly more than the Gamma that don't have half of it's features.

I usually don't put much stock in the boxes that watches ship in. As long as they protect the watch long enough for it to arrive, that's usually good enough for me. The Reactor box is cool though. In addition to looking like a nuclear reactor (like the Fallout's box) and having a magnetically sealed compartment in the base for spare links, the top part is meant to be used as a beer/soda can insulated sleeve (there is actually a diagram on the outside of the box about this feature). Gotta like that :)

Reactor Fallout Chronograph Review

2010-01-20T13:58:00.027-05:00

I became interested in Reactor watches after encountering an article about them in Watchtime a while back. The company is run by Jimmy Olmes, formerly of Freestyle watches. Reactor's website states that their goal is to build the best performance sports watch, a lofty goal indeed.

Reactor takes an interesting approach to marketing their watches. As is obvious from the company's name, there is a strong nuclear theme to their products. All of their watches carry names related to atomic power and in some cases, like my Fallout model, atomic power gone wild. According to Watchtime, this was done to highlight the high quality lume that Reactor employs on its products (Including one model that I know of that mixes tritium tubes with a very strong coat of superluminova. That sounds particularly enticing to me as strong lume is something I've come to appreciate).

On to the watch itself. This thing is seriously built. It is the first watch I've encountered that matches (and in some areas exceeds) a Seiko Monster in the brawn category. Everywhere you look there is heavy, solid stainless steel. The bracelet is a particularly well done all solid link design with a heavily built clasp. The bezel, which includes a bright embedded luminous marker, is large and easy to grip and the screw-down crown is well protected. The crown is interesting by the way. It uses a triple seal and will remain water resistant to 100 meters even if left unscrewed. (Why anyone would forget to close the crown before getting it wet is beyond me but, hey, it doesn't hurt to be idiot proof). Additionally, the watch is rated at 200 meters water resistance, the first chrono I've owned that can go that deep. A final detail about the bracelet by the way, it is held on to the watch by a thick threaded bar/screw that I have heard will support 200 lbs. The threads themselves are coated with urethane to keep them from accidentally unscrewing btw. No chance of breaking a spring bar on this one. The crystal is domed and is made of a thick, hardened mineral glass (not as scratch resistant as sapphire but more shatter resistant in keeping with it's intended sports/roughing-it theme).

Internally, the Fallout is advertised as having a Japanese quartz chronograph movement (I'm almost certain it is a Miyota OS20, a very well regarded movement with a long history of reliability). Accuracy appears to be excellent as is to be expected from a quartz movement. The movement is reported to be mounted in a shock resistant housing for extra protection.

Reactor is proud of their lume application technique and it's not hard to see why. Even a brief exposure to the fluorescent lights of my office produced a strong glow. In my personal time test, the lume remained visible on my nightstand after 8 hours. It may last significantly longer for all I know but that was as long as I could stay in bed. From what I understand, Reactor uses multiple layers of superluminova to ensure that low light visibility is excellent.

The Fallout measures 40mm in diameter (not including the crown or chrono pushers-43mm with them) a hair over 13mm in height and has a 22mm band lug width that appears much wider thanks to the reinforced screw bar attachment system. There are some folks who may feel that 40mm is not that big by today's standards. I would take that with a grain of salt when it comes to the Fallout. There is nothing dainty about this watch at all. If anything, exactly the opposite is true. The overall look of the Fallout says precision tough to my eye. It looks like a serious piece of equipment, and I believe that it is just that. Mind you, Reactor does have some larger models in its arsenal if that appeals to you. I used to be a big watch fan too. After two years of serious exercise (and 40 lbs less of me to lug around) anything much bigger than 40mm looks clownish on me these days. By the way, if you are concerned that the Fallout will wear like a steel brick, don't be. Reactor managed to make a solidly made sports watch that doesn't feel like a handcuff on the wrist. The bracelet is attached in such a way as to distribute the overall mass of this model very comfortably. A lot of thought clearly went into this design.

As you can probably tell by now, I'm very impressed with the Fallout. I have little doubt that it can stand up to most anything I can throw at it. Incidentally, if I do find a way to really hurt the Fallout, Reactor offers an amazingly comprehensive 2 year guaranty on all of their watches. The retail price on the Fallout Chronograph is $300 but, as always, it never hurts to shop around.

As an aside, the box that this watch came in is really nicely done. I don't usually get too excited about the boxes a watch ships in but this one, aside from looking like a nuclear reactor, has a hidden, magnetically sealed, compartment on the bottom for spare links. A very nice touch.

Another interesting old Vostok Amphibia Cosmonaut

2009-12-10T23:26:00.003-05:00

Fundamentally the same watch as the previously reviewed Vostok Neptune , the Cosmonaut pictured here arrived new old stock in the original box with paperwork indicating a 1991 manufacture date. This one uses the older 21 jewel version of the 2414b movement. The bracelet is slightly different from the more modern Neptune model and the dial graphic is quite rare but, otherwise, it is a Vostok Amphibia in all meaningful respects.

I paid a bit more than I would have liked for this one but they are becoming quite hard to find and this one makes a fine addition to the other two Cosmonaut models that I have.

Adi Model 224 Ana-Digi Diver Review

2009-10-23T20:29:00.009-04:00

On an aftermarket Maratac band

The 224 is another of Adi's watches that is marketed to the Israeli Defense Forces. It is in many ways a combination of the best features of the two previous Adi military models that I have reviewed here. The 224 has the Miyota T201 movement of the Ana-Digi Diver housed in the shrouded case of the Model 221. The result is a best of both worlds combination between the feature rich analog/digital movement and a case design that will accept pretty much any 22mm band.

The watch measures 42 mm in width (not including the crown and pushers) 13 mm in height, 43 mm lug to lug and uses a 22mm band. Like the previously reviewed model 221, the 224 wears smaller than it's dimensions would suggest thanks to the short lug length. That makes it quite comfortable on the wrist.

In all other respects, the 224 is identical to the previously reviewed Ana-digi diver. It boasts the same 200 meter water resistance (again accomplished without a screw down crown) and it's movement has the same feature set as the other model too. The lume is superluminova that is quite visible in darkness and the digital display pane has a small backlight. The alarm function works well enough to remind you of an appointment or the like but is not loud enough to use as an alarm clock.

I think that this is my favorite of Adi's military watches so far. I particularly appreciate that I can change watchbands easily. The stock rubber diver's band is just fine but I think a Nato or Zulu would work well with this watch too. I feel pretty comfortable recommending the 224 as a good beater. I gave the model 221 to my 13 yr old son about a year ago and he has 't managed to destroy it yet. That suggests that the 224 with it's similar case design should hold up well too.

The 224 isn't the easiest of Adi's watches to track down. The one retailer that I found who had it was israel-shop.net. Their price was reasonable but their shipping time at three weeks could have been better. Still, it arrived with no problems so I can't really complain. All told, the 224 is a fine field watch that should give good service. I think it's a keeper.

Ostwok Vostok Generalskie Review

2009-10-06T22:19:00.010-04:00

On a Hirsch Trapper for a change of pace

On a Nilsen Bund

Here's a question for you. When is a Vostok not a Vostok. The answer-when it's an Ostwok. For those of you who are now scratching your heads, I'm quite serious. It seems that back in the mid 1990s a Swiss company was formed for the purpose of selling rebranded Vostok models to western customers. (See this thread on Watchuseek for more discussion). The company was named Ostwok and was in business from 1995 until roughly 2000. Their products were otherwise ordinary Vostok Komandirskie and Generalskie models except that the logo on the watch face was changed (See images above. That's not a Vostok logo). Otherwise, the Ostwok is a Vostok in all other respects. This particular model uses a Vostok 2414A stemwinder movement. It shipped with a typical Vostok leather band (which is to say a terrible watchband that I swapped for this leather bund strap). The packaging was a little nicer than a typical Vostok's and included a small catalog of the company's available selection (see above). All in all, the Ostwok is an interesting footnote in Russian watchmaking history. FYI, I got this one on ebay. Examples turn up there from time to time.

The Recession Bracelet

2009-09-05T16:24:00.008-04:00

Update-I found a bracelet on ebay that really looks quite similar to the original. It is not a solid link design but for a whopping $16 shipped, I wasn't going to argue :) Tag should really be ashamed at the price they try to get for these bracelets. There is really no justification for it in my opinion.

After five years of fairly regular wear and abuse, the stock bracelet on my Tag Formula One was looking a bit pooped. It had gotten loose and some of the links appeared to have been stretched and laterally twisted a bit. Under ordinary circumstances, I would have just sprung for a new factory bracelet and let that be that. However, at well over $200 for an OEM bracelet, the economy and the wreckage of my portfolio ruled that option out.

My poor man's solution to this problem was to very carefully Dremel down the end links on an old Hadley Roma bracelet that I got a few years earlier. It is a well made Breitling style solid link bracelet whose heft nicely balances the beefy Formula One.

I'm quite happy with the results of this project. For no out of pocket cost, I was able to put an old favorite back into the rotation.

The Ministry Amphibia "Scuba Dude"

2009-05-11T21:11:00.005-04:00

On a Modena rubber diver's band

On a Maratac Nato "Bond"

I was very pleased to find this edition of the Ministry Amphibia. Mechanically, this watch is the same as the previously reviewed version. The design on the face of this model though is, in my humble opinion, the best looking version of this line of watches. The raised markers are unique to modern Vostok divers. They somehow give the watch a more sophisticated look to my eye. Despite appearances though, the raised markers are not luminous. (The lume is standard Vostok btw-terrible, that is) The band in the photos above is an aftermarket Nato Bond. I think it works well with this one. I got it here. The stock bracelet was better than most Vostok bracelets but nothing to write home about. Still, for a staggering $64/shipped (Ebay seller-Zenitar), its hard to argue with this big 200m automatic diver. Like most Vostoks, it is solid, well made and easily affordable.

More Interesting Russians

2009-04-11T21:12:00.003-04:00

Another pair of old Vostoks. The upper one is very unusual. It is a Komandirskie with a chrome plated brass case and a 31 jewel automatic movement. It is in NOS condition and arrived in its original box with the stock strap (which I swapped out for the nylon band you see). What makes it so unusual is the dial graphic. It commemorates the 50th anniversary of the founding of the state of Israel. Given the historic tension that existed between Israel and the Soviet client states of the Middle-East, the existence of this model strikes me as remarkable.

The watch on the bottom is a Soviet built Amphibia with a stainless steel case. Unlike most of these diver watches, this one was equipped with a 17 jewel Vostok 2409 hand-wound movement and an iron anti-magnetic shield inside the case over the movement. It too is in NOS condition and is pictured on a period Soviet made stainless steel bracelet.

A diamond in the rough

2009-03-27T23:12:00.005-04:00

One of the things that I love about this hobby is how it is possible to have fun with it without spending a fortune. While it is always a pleasure to acquire a really nice watch, the fact is that in these times a good deal counts for a lot. The watch you see above, an early to mid 1990's Vostok Komandirskie, perfectly illustrates the enjoy the hobby without breaking the bank theory.

(As an aside, if you want a full review of a Vostok Komandirskie, check out this review I did of another example. Pretty much everything I said then is still true).

While on my way home from work a few days back, I stopped in a local jeweler/junk shop. In a box at the back of the jewelers case, I spied this Vostok. The crystal was scratched and the case had some gunk on it but it fired right up when wound. After hemming and hawing with the proprietor for a few minutes, he agreed to let it go for the princely sum of $10. That seemed too good to pass up.

I probably should have taken a before picture of this one to illustrate its condition better. To make it simple, the crystal needed a good hour of polishing with Crystal Clear (which I highly recommend for removing scratches from acrylic crystals by the way) and the case needed a thorough going over with a damp toothbrush. The movement, however, looked perfect. There was no evidence of dirt or water damage at all.

I expected that this old watch would need at least some regulation but, as it turns out, it's nearly as accurate as most of the other mechanical watches I own (Seems to be gaining about 20 seconds a day. I can live with that). That pleasant surprise was the icing on the cake for me. The bottom line is that there are some good deals out there for us collectors if we are prepared to use our imagination and a little elbow grease. Not a bad way to keep a hobby going, even in rough times like these.

UZI Ballistic Tritium Watch Review

2009-02-03T23:38:00.028-05:00

On an aftermarket Maratac Zulu.

On the stock rubber strap

The lume

Update- I just got back from a whitewater rafting trip on the Kennebec River in Maine. I wore the Ballistic for four days of serious "roughing it". I'm happy to say that the watch came through in far better shape than its owner. The water didn't bother the Ballistic at all. Additionally, a long game of beach volleyball, with a bunch of kids less than half my age-duh!, did no damage either despite repeated collisions with the ground so to speak. (To the watch that is. My back and knees are another story). I'm quite comfortable saying that the Ballistic is a very tough customer indeed.

I love getting a new watch as if you folks didn't already know that. From unboxing it to reading about its features to admiring it's looks to smashing it with a hammer, it's always great fun. (!!!...What! ... What did he say! A hammer?!) You read that last part right, I actually took a hammer to the crystal of this watch. More accurately, I put a 3/4" wide wooden dowel in a towel and then used it like a chisel on the crystal with a small jewelers mallet. As to why I would do something like this to a watch that I don't hate at all, read on.

Uzi is part of Campco, a company that specializes in products for law enforcement, camping and generally roughing it. The Uzi brand of watches is notable for its very affordable line of tritium tube watches. (See this review of the Uzi Protector) The model you see here, the Ballistic sits at the top of that line. (They also have an impressive line of stun guns, pepper spray, batons and handcuffs should the need arise.)

The Ballistic is a very impressive looking watch. My example uses what appears to be a IPB coated stainless steel case and a rubber diver's style band. The watch measures 44mm in width (not including the screw-down crown, 48mm with it), 15mm in thickness, 50mm lug to lug and has a 22mm band lug width. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters which is fine as this isn't a diver's watch (I have since learned from Uzi that all of the Ballistic models are actually rated at 200 meters water resistance. It seems that some of the early ones were labeled 50 meters incorrectly. Either number is deeper than I'll ever go.) The Ballistic's bezel rotates counter clockwise with a solid action. It would have been nice if there was a luminous marker set in the bezel but you can't have everything I guess. Internally, the Ballistic is powered by a Ronda Powertech quartz movement that can be hacked if that feature matters to you. Accuracy, as is to be expected with a quartz watch, is excellent. It is my understanding that Uzi has also put some work into reinforcing the hands and the movement to provide for superior shock resistance. That's definately appreciated given the abuse this one is meant to withstand.

So far, so good. The two features that really set the Ballistic apart from most watches though are the lume and the crystal. For night time visibility, the Ballistic is equipped with fourteen small glass vials containing luminous tritium. The vials are mounted at the twelve hour markers on the watch face and on the hour and minute hands. The second hand appears to use conventional superluminova. (Uzi now uses the MB Microtec brand of tritium tubes for its watches, the same system used by Luminox and Traser for their watches) . This system is in my opinion the very best for low light visibility and it doesn't disappoint. Visibility in the dark is truly superb. When your eyes adjust to the darkness, the Ballistic actually throws enough light to read by, at least up close.

(As an aside, radiation is not a concern with this technology. The tritium is sealed in glass tubes that are set behind the crystal. As tritium is not a strong radiation emitter to begin with, this level of protection effectively blocks any possible radiation from escaping. For what its worth, the US Government strictly regulates sources of radiation. The technology used by Uzi and others on watches is considered legal and safe.)

The other interesting feature of the Ballistic concerns that bit about the hammer earlier on. Most watches use either mineral glass, acrylic or synthetic sapphire for their crystal. These materials all have their advantages. That being said, they do share the same weakness, impact resistance. As some of us have found out the hard way, when you bang a watch crystal, it breaks. The folks at Uzi, however, have hit on an interesting solution to this problem. The Ballistic, you see, uses what is technically known as a polycarbonate crystal. That's bullet proof glass to the rest of us. Now I'm not suggesting that this watch can be used as body armor but there are some videos on the Uzi website of the ballistic getting hammered on and being used as a hockey puck without apparent damage. That's why I decided to give my example the hammer test. I did not put steel on glass like the folks in the video did. I don't have that much nerve I'm afraid. However, I'm pretty sure that the blow that I gave it would have broken most watch crystals. The Uzi suffered no apparent damage at all.

To sum this up, if you want a good looking watch with superb low light visibility that can honestly take a hammering, this is your watch. It is well worth its list price of $260 in my opinion. Like everything else though, it never hurts to shop around.

Note-I believe that Uzi also sells Maratac bands. This watch is a natural for one.

Swatch Irony Review (Struggler)

2008-11-25T16:52:00.008-05:00

Since most of us are a bit poorer these days, I thought it made sense to explore one of the brands that is really equated with both value and quality, Swatch. Oddly, I have never owned a Swatch until now. But, when my local jeweler came into a number of NOS (new old stock) models at discounted prices, I decided to take the plunge. My initial thought was that a Swatch would make a terrific year end gift to a co-worker who had been wistfully eyeing some of my other toys. (I got him a "Wealthy Star" model chronograph if you are interested). What I wasn't expecting was to like it enough to want one for myself.

The model you see above is called the "Struggler". It dates from 2001 and is one of Swatch's Irony models. Being a NY Mets fan, the colors immediately appealed to me. (Come to think of it, the name makes sense too) Swatch, as most of us know, made its name in making fashionable plastic Swiss watches. The Irony takes this concept and extends it to stainless steel. The result is a solidly made man's wristwatch that frankly seems to be a relative bargain, even at today's list price. (The Swatch Group incidentally is the powerhouse in the Swiss watch industry. The story behind this company is a good read if you are interested. See here or here as well as this Wikipedia entry as well).

The watch itself measures 40mm in width not including the crown (Swatch says 39mm but my ruler says 40 so I'm going with that number), 14mm in thickness 47mm lug to lug and has a 22mm band lug width. Internally, it is powered by a 4 jewel ETA G10.711 quartz chronograph movement. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters and the lume, despite this example's age, is quite good. The bracelet on this Irony is especially worthy of praise. For what is marketed as a consumer/fashion watch, it is a heavy solid link design with a nicely made signed clasp. As watch bracelets go, it is better than many others I've encountered. Lastly, the watch case is also interesting with drilled lugs and a one-piece design with an access point only for the battery.

All told, there is really no downside to a Swatch Irony. It is affordable, even in these awful times, very well made and looks terrific (albeit by my eye). If you are looking for a good solid daily wearer or a nice gift, you really can't go wrong with a Swatch.

As an aside, I got this one at Watch Station located at the Third Avenue entrance to the Lexington Avenue/53rd street subway station in NYC. The shop is one flight down at the back of the news stand. Raphael, the owner has a number of these new old stock Swatch models available and I got the impression that the prices were negotiable. (He has some beautiful vintage pieces too by the way) It’s worth checking him out.

Suunto T1c Review

2008-11-21T16:39:00.009-05:00

A few months ago I decided that it was time to start exercising to get back into shape. Like many folks these days, I had simply enjoyed stuffing myself too many times. Now the reason this introduction has some relevance to watches is because exercise works better if you keep track of your progress as you do it. And that brings me to the subject of this review, the Suunto T1c. You know the way those digital meters on an exercycle keep tabs on your pulse, time and calories burned, well, the T1c does that too.

A little background first, Suunto is a Finnish company that makes a series of digital watches that are all very advanced in their capabilities. Some have GPS capability, some can measure altitude, some can track the weather and some seem to be capable of doing just about everything. Overall, the company’s products are geared towards an active, outdoor lifestyle. If that describes you, these folks have something you'll appreciate.

On to the T1c. The watch is in many ways a typical digital watch. It gives you the time, the day and date, it has an alarm, a backlight and it can handle another time zone. So far, nothing special although the reverse contrast display and the sweeping seconds indicator (a digital dot that orbits the dial) are pretty cool. It measures 44mm in width (including the pushers) and 12mm in height. (Mind you, the T1c seems to wear smaller that its dimensions would suggest. I think it’s because of the integrated band.) The watch band is plastic and can be replaced when it wears out. The case is plastic as well with a stainless steel back. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters. All really quite conventional so far. Where things get interesting though is when you press the Mode button and unpack a curious accessory in the Suunto box.

Before you get started, there are a few preliminaries to take care of. The first thing you have to do (after setting the date and time) is to enter some information about yourself. The watch needs to know your age, weight, gender and approximately how active you are based on a scale (included in the manual and online). Don't be put off by this step by the way. The controls are intuitive and it only takes a minute to set up. You are now ready to put the T1c to work. Pressing the Mode button puts the watch into Training mode where it is now ready to start measuring you as you exercise. The accessory I mentioned gets used now too. In the box, you will see what looks very much like an elastic belt, which is exactly what it is. This belt contains a small wireless transmitter that, when worn across the chest, tells the watch how you are doing. The belt is thankfully soft and unobtrusive so wearing it for an hour or so is no problem. One caveat, there are two pads on the inside part of the belt that need to be moist to work. A little hand cream seems to do the job nicely. (The belt is washable if you are concerned btw). Suuunto does tell you to wet these pads but the importance of this step is great. The belt will not detect your pulse otherwise. (Suunto warns that people with pacemakers should not use this device by the way).

I wore the Suunto T1c while riding my recumbent exercise bike. The bike itself has a computerized digital display that measures calories burned among other things so I was able to gauge how accurate the T1c was. It did pretty well, coming in within 5 percent of the bicycle computer's reading. (For all I know it may be the more accurate of the two). That seems pretty good to my reckoning and more than informative enough to be used to track one’s workout. In addition to tracking an individual workout, the T1c also stores the results of your workouts for later reference should you want to check your progress over time. You can also set the watch to measure your progress as a function of your heart rate using the heart rate zones feature.

Overall, the T1c is a pretty slick piece of equipment. It really is an exercise computer that happens to have a watch on board. Mind you, the T1c would do fine as a daily wearer. It is comfortable and its timekeeping functions are excellent. Its utility as a workout tracker though is very helpful indeed if you are serious about getting into shape. Wearing the T1c (and its sensor belt) effectively puts an electronic monitor on any exercise routine you choose to do. That makes tracking both your heart rate and the all important “calories burned” very simple. I wasn’t sure if I would like using a watch like this while exercising but seeing those totals come up after a workout is addictive to me. If you are into exercise or thinking about starting an exercise routine, consider the T1c a recommended accessory.

P.S.-Before anyone asks, I have dropped 33 lbs in the last 7 months and now weigh 179lbs. Getting there :)

Adi Model 221 Diver Review

2008-11-13T23:20:00.013-05:00

On a Modena rubber diver strap

The subject of this review, the Adi Model 221 is another one of the company’s watches that is marketed to the Israeli armed forces. (For those of you who feel like poking around in Adi’s website, model numbers 220 through 229 are purchased by the ministry of defense according to a company representative.) This one came to me by way of Israeli Products.Com. One detail to note if you are considering one of these is that the dial’s logo print has changed from the image on the seller’s website. The word “Adi” is now in a script font as opposed to the block letters in the website image. I like both styles so it doesn’t really matter to me.

This Adi measures 42 mm in width (not including the crown), 13 mm in height, 43 mm lug to lug and uses a 22mm band lug width. Unlike the previously reviewed Adi IDF watch, the lugs on this model are conventionally designed and switching bands is quite easy. They are also quite short in length and make the watch wear smaller than it actually measures. The watch shipped with a rubber diver’s band that has a wind velocity chart printed on it. (In some of the shots above, the watch is pictured with an aftermarket Maratac nylon military style band. I think it looks quite good.) The Model 221 is quartz driven by an otherwise unremarkable Miyota movement that can be hacked if that is important to you. The movement also includes day and date functions. Water resistance is rated at 200 meters which is more than sufficient. Interestingly, the 200 meter water resistance rating is achieved without using a screw-down crown. The lume on this diver is really very good. I would put it on the level of a Citizen automatic diver if you are familiar with them. It apparently uses superluminova paint that was both bright and long lasting in the dark. The crystal is mineral glass set flush with the bezel. Lastly, the bezel is a counter-rotating design with a very firm action.

Visually, the Model 221 has a sort of shrouded case style, that looks a bit like a Seiko Tuna can diver, albeit on a much smaller scale. The watch wears quite comfortably thanks to the short lugs. Accuracy, as is to be expected with a quartz watch, is excellent.

All in all, the Model 221 is an interesting military watch that would make for a good daily wearer/sports watch and should last a long time. It is apparently well made and its high water resistance should allow it to stand up to whatever most of us will encounter. At $85 from the previously mentioned vendor, it’s a good choice too in these budget conscious times.

Debaufre Nav-B Review (44mm version)

2008-09-19T13:30:00.029-04:00

Debaufre makes many fine watches as those of you who read this site already know. The one model of their's that I personally think has generated the most interest from the collector's community is their pilot's watch, the Nav-B. This piece, really more than any other I can think of, has successfully re-introduced the classic flyer's watch back to the market in an attainable way. I've been wistfully looking at one of these for some time now. After all the positive comments I've heard about the Nav-B, I had to put in my own two cents. In a nutshell, if you know the feeling you get when you handle something that is really exceptionally well done then you will recognize it in the Nav-B. It's that sensation when nothing catches your eye as being out of whack somehow. I’ve played with some pretty fancy watches as a collector. They’ve got nothing on this beauty.

A little history first. The Nav-B is loosely based on a military aviator’s watch. The original Beobachtungs-Uhrens, (manufactured by IWC, Laco, Stowa, Wempe & Lange) were made for the German air force. They were enormous watches, more like clocks really, measuring 55mm in diameter and meant to be worn on the arm outside of a flight jacket. (see-here). The Debaufre Nav-B takes this concept and brings it down to a more manageable size, in this case 44mm. (They also make a bigger version at 48mm. That’s big to be sure but its looks are really stunning.) Like the early aviator watches it is based on, the Nav-B is designed to be simple and easy to read with excellent contrast on the dial. In this respect Debaufre succeeded admirably. As an aside, if you are interested in learning a bit more about the history of military timepieces, that a look at the links provided by the Watchuseek Pilot and Military Watches Forum

On to the watch itself. The Nav-B measures 44mm in width, not including the crown (it's a hair over 49mm with it). While this is billed as a smaller version of Debaufre’s earlier Nav-B model, don’t think for a minute that smaller means small. 44mm is hardly dainty by anyone’s standard. The watch is 14mm in thickness, a bit over 52mm lug to lug and has a 22mm band lug width. The watchband, in what is becoming a Debaufre trend, is a beautiful piece of leather that features a riveted design like early military watchbands. The thick buckle merits mention too. It isn't the usual piece of sheet metal. (Incidentally, if you are looking for a really nice replacement band, Debaufre has a good selection of these watchbands on their website. The Havana Old Vintage model, in particular, catches my eye.) The Nav-B uses Superluminova lume on its hands and face. The crystal is a domed sapphire model, with what I believe is an anti reflective coating, to effectively ward off scratches and further improve visibility. Water resistance is rated at 3atm which is fine as the Nav B makes no pretense at being a diver’s watch. (Take a look at the Ocean One if you plan to get wet) Lastly, the Nav-B Unitas models feature a see-through crystal caseback to show off the movement.

Internally, the Nav-B is powered by a 17 jewel Unitas 6497 hand wound movement. Originally developed by the firm of Auguste Reymond, and now made by ETA, the Unitas is an old and well regarded movement that has proven itself to be both rugged and accurate. For a history of the Unitas, see the Unitas Reference Site. (Lately, the supply of these movements and many others from ETA, the largest of the Swiss movement suppliers, has been shrinking. ETA has announced that they want to cease supplying movements to the rest of the watch industry. Service will not be a problem going forward as the parts are widely available but new watches with these movements may become harder to find).

The Nav-B is an undeniably handsome watch. The face is simple and easy to read but still interesting to the eye. The blued hands give the Nav-B an old fashoined elegance in my opinion. The large knurled onion style crown compliments that classic look perfectly. You might be concerned that a 44mm watch could be cumbersome on the wrist. However, despite its size, the Nav-B wears very comfortably indeed.

I have always appreciated the look of the early pilot's watches. They possess a classic simplicity that reflects the job they were made for. I had also pretty much resigned myself to never being able to own a well made example of one. Like most folks, an IWC pilot watch is simply out of the question price-wise. (There are whole airplanes that cost less than the IWC . That is not an exaggeration.) That Debaufre can sell a pilot’s watch that looks and feels as good as the Nav-B for what they are charging, is remarkable.

Buships Canteen Diver (quartz homage) Review

2008-09-02T09:15:00.006-04:00

In the late forties the US Navy issued a new specification for a diver's watch for its underwater demolition teams. The watch was to be water resistant to a depth of 100 feet (how times have changed), employ a 17 jewel hand wound movement and a domed acrylic crystal. The most striking feature, however, was the large canteen crown. The original dimensions were tiny by today's standards, 32mm in width with a 16mm band lug width. Original models of this watch, made by Elgin, are hard to find these days and command premium prices. (For an excellent account of the history of this watch see this site)

The Buships diver you see above is a modern homage to that Elgin diver, albeit with a number of modifications to reflect changes in taste and technology. Initially, this version was enlarged somewhat. Realistically, a 32mm watch, like the original, is simply not going to appeal to folks today. The new version is 36mm in width and uses an 18mm band. Still not exactly big by today's standards but the canteen crown makes the overall package 44mm wide and thus reasonably large by today's standards. The other big change with this model is the movement. The new diver uses an ISA 1198 quartz movement in place of the original hand cranker (not as nice by far but much more affordable). The water resistance is the same as the old Elgin however, 100 ft (3 atm). Additionally, the new version uses what appears to be superluminova on the hands only. The crown on the re-issue is purely decorative incidentally; there is no seal in it that I can see. Lastly, the watch ships with a period style canvas military band that compliments the watch nicely.

All in all, the Buships is a pretty nice watch. It is both very distinctive looking and quite accurate (like most quartz watches). It is not a premium piece by any means but at well under $100, it's not going to break anyone's budget either. If you like the military look, and your wrist size is less than 7", the Buships is worth a look. I picked this one up here.

Some fine old Vostoks

2008-06-19T20:37:00.008-04:00

Pictured with a modern Amphibia to illustrate the difference in case size.

Not really a review this time. Just a few photos of a pair of Vostok Cosmonauts and another model bearing the image of a Vostok spaceship that I recently acquired. The graphic on the two Cosmonauts, showing a profile view of a cosmonaut wearing a helmet, is hard to come by. To find two of them in excellent condition was real luck. The black one is even more unusual. It uses an older style case design that is considerably larger than current Vostok Amphibia cases. Not a common case style at all. All three models use the 2416b automatic movement, are rated at 200 meters water resistance and have Vostok's thick acrylic crystal. All are running strong thankfully. Some posters at Watchuseek.com have speculated that the one with the silver colored dial actually has a picture of an atomic bomb on the face. Levenberg's book Russian Wristwatches, however, identifies it as a spaceship.

The Russian Watch Forum Vostok Amphibia Radio Operator

2008-06-14T18:10:00.008-04:00

I know that's a mighty long title on this review but then this is a special watch. Collecting Russian watches is interesting to me because so many of them have a story behind them. Whether it be the Type One with its American designed and Russian made pocket watch movement or the first watch to be worn in space, there is often a lot of history to be had. The watch you see above has now become part of that Russian watch history as well. This Vostok, you see, is really the watch that watch collectors made.

The story began in Italy when the members of the Orologiando watch forum got the idea to commission Vostok to make a watch for them. The design they settled on was a variation of the old Vostok Radio Operator watch. This one, however, would use the Vostok 2416b 31-jewel automatic movement, instead of the 17-jewel stemwinder that the original employed. The new model has a white face instead of black and uses the modern Amphibia case. In a nod to Vostok's military heritage, the new model has the notation 3AKA3 on the dial (The old Soviet acronym for "By order of the ministry of defense. Update-A reader on Watchuseek pointed out that 3AKA3 isn't an acronym. It is the Russian word for "Order". Good to know.). The Italian forum members then contacted the Russian watch community at Watchuseek.com to see if anyone wanted in. The response from both forums was enthusiastic and the order was placed. Two variations were ultimately ordered, a model with a date window and the no-date model you see above. (To read the story of how this got started, see here)

After a few months of exciting updates showing the progress that was being made at the factory, the watches began to arrive. As you can see, the case back is engraved with my name and a number indicating it was the fifth of the one hundred-five of this series. (Some buyers opted to engrave their case backs in Cyrillic text). My example came with a polished stainless steel folded link bracelet. It wasn't a horrible bracelet but, as collectors of Vostok watches know, it was not of the greatest quality. I decided to replace it with a Rios waterproof leather/nylon band. I think it is a good fit. As for the rest of the watch, pretty much everything I have said in my previous Amphibia review is still true. The Forum Radio Operator is as good a field watch/diver as my previously reviewed Amphibias. This one, however, will not be subjected to harsh conditions. It is, after all, a special watch.

As an aside, the place where I got this Rios band has a Russian jeweler on staff who has experience servicing Russian watches. I brought in an Amphibia in a few weeks back whose date was changing at 9pm instead of midnight. I figured I would get the usual western jeweler treatment when I present a Russian watch, which is a flat out rejection. Instead, the owner looked over the watch, correctly identified it as a Russian piece and then told me that he had a guy who could take care of it for me. They did, in fact fix it, for a reasonable price. Something to think about if you need a Russian piece serviced in New York at least.

Watch Band Combos Revisited

2008-05-29T22:03:00.012-04:00

I've been experimenting with different watch band combinations lately. It is interesting to me how the look of a watch can be completely changed with little more than a new band. The pictures above show the same three watches in various different guises. I picked these Debaufre/Steinhart models for three reasons. They are well built and affordable. Any one of them would be a perfect choice for someone who only wants one watch. (horrors!) Lastly, their looks really change quite a bit with the different bands.

The simplest and least expensive of these combinations is a nylon band. There are loads of online vendors for these styles. (I got the ones pictured here . These folks have a great selection too.) On watches like those pictured, a nylon band really creates a good military look. If you look through old watch catalogs, you will see a lot of sport and military watches with leather bands. It's not the most common of looks today but I think it merits consideration. A good leather band can give a diver or chrono a nice vintage style. Lastly, a stainless steel bracelet produces that modern sporty look and feel to say nothing of being very durable.

The best part of playing this game is the economy of it. While new watches can be pricey, watch bands are generally affordable. Get a nice watch for yourself and a few different bands to dress it up or down for whatever mood strikes you. Not a bad way for a watch collector to ride out hard economic times.

As an aside, my favorite source for watch bands is no more. Randy Nilsen, who's ebay shop I have mentioned many times in previous reviews has passed away. He was one of the good guys and will be missed indeed.

Debaufre Aircraft 8 Review

2008-05-10T23:49:00.027-04:00

On a 26mm rubber diver's band for hot weather

A month or so ago, I was given a fake Bell & Ross Instrument watch. (Ed climbs up on soapbox) I will not wear a fake, (Defined by me as an item with a brand name that was not built by its real maker). I personally think that wearing fakes is really cheesy. So, off to my brother-in-law it went. (Yeah, I should have just trashed it but he liked it. So sue me.) Period. Hmmm....well, that being said, as absurd as I felt when I put the thing on, I have to admit that it looked really good. (As an aside, this fake was really amazing. All the markings, including those on the case back, were correct. Scary.) What to do? Enter the Debaufre Aircraft 8.

The Aircraft 8 is Debaufre's homage to aircraft instrument clocks. (An homage, again defined by me, is an ode to another design. It is art based on art without the rip-off. An homage is sold under its own name and, like the Aircraft 8, goes its own way with its detail execution.) The basic idea behind this watch is that it looks like the clocks found in an airplane cockpit, just smaller. As such, it fits in well with Debaufre's military and sport themed collection.

On to the Aircraft 8 itself. The watch is quite large, measuring 44mm on each side and 52mm from lug to lug. This might be an issue if your wrist is much below 6 3/4". (On the other hand, that size gives it it's striking looks.) It is 10mm thick and uses a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. As watch crystals go, this is about as good as they get, both in regards to scratch resistance and visibility. The leather band that ships with the Aircraft 8 merits special praise. It is a thick slab of leather that really compliments this watch perfectly. Measuring 26mm in width at the lugs, it is really very well done. The superluminova lume on the Aircraft 8 is pretty good. The hands glow very nicely for several hours in darkness. The numerals on the face are also lumed, but are not as bright as the hands. The Aircraft 8 has a large knurled crown with the Debaufre star etched into it that is very easy to grip for winding and setting. Lastly, the case is rated at 3atm water resistance, which is fine as this isn't a diver's watch.

Internally, ETA’s tried and true 2824 25 jewel automatic movement powers the Aircraft 8. (The 2824 is an ETA workhorse. It is rugged and accurate and any jeweler worth his salt should have no difficulty servicing it should the need arise in the future.) My example is running at +7 seconds so far which is perfectly acceptable. The watch can be hacked and hand wound, if those features matter to you.

Given its shape, you might be tempted to think that the Aircraft 8 wears like a stainless steel brick on the wrist. Fortunately, as the pictures above hopefully convey, the designers of this watch had the sense to build in a curve to the case back. The effect is similar to that of watches having curved lugs. It makes the watch sit more firmly and comfortably on the wrist than a flat case back model would.

In summary, if you like the cockpit instrument look but can't drop 3 grand for one, check out the Aircraft 8. The build quality is excellent, the movement is a proven winner and it looks terrific. Additionally, Debaufre sells several other versions of this watch, an all black PVD model and two models with luminous dials.

As an aside, photos of this watch really don't do justice to it. This is purely subjective on my part but I really think that the Aircraft 8 looks substantially better in person.

Addendum-One reader asked if it is possible to wear the Aircraft 8 with a dress shirt. A good question really as most large watches simply cannot fit under a shirt cuff. I didn't realize it but I answered this question for myself when I wore the Aircraft 8 to work while wearing such a shirt. The watch fit without the usual contortions involved in wearing a big watch. That's one of the advantages of a watch that is 10mm in thickness. To help illustrate this, I have attached below a side by side shot of the Aircraft 8 with a Seiko Monster. I hope it illustrates the point fairly well.

The Nato band

2008-04-19T09:19:00.007-04:00

I've gotten a fair number of questions through the years about how to wear a Nato band. The pictures above illustrate how it should look when worn. The watch is a fairly typical Vostok Amphibia, the same watch seen below on a waterproof leather band (fully reviewed here), a good choice for a Nato as the stock Vostok bands and bracelets are not of the best quality.

The Nato style is a nice match for sport/military watches. It is adjustable for almost any size wrist and water can't harm it. It also has a unique look to say the least. It doesn't hurt that Nato bands are generally very affordable too. A good selection of reasonably priced models can be found here.

Incidentally, if you are curious about the origin of the Nato strap, see this thread on Watchuseek and this pdf file.

Waterproof Leather

2008-04-15T13:29:00.008-04:00

I recently discovered waterproof leather bands. I don’t know how I managed to miss this before. Gotta tell you, if you have a heavy watch, like the divers above, and you want to make them more comfortable for daily wear, this is the way to go. You can still get things wet without worry but the whole package is lighter and easier to live with. I got this one at Central Watch band Stand but there are many vendors online with these bands. Google Hirsch Marine to find some of them.

The first watch shown btw is a Vostok Amphibia. The one below it is a Seiko SBBN007. The last one is a Debaufre Ocean One Classic Edition. The Classic Edition, in particular, really has an old time diver watch look with the leather band. Both are winning combinations in my opinion.

Adi Watch Review-IDF Ana-Digi Diver

2008-03-11T15:02:00.029-04:00

When I first encountered the Adi IDF watch, my first thought was Breitling Pluton. As it turns out, I was close. Both watches use very similar Miyota analog/digital chronograph movements (see here for a database of these movements and this post on Watchuseek.com for a discussion of the Pluton) with the same functions, but their control layouts are slightly different. The watch seen here is designed for and used by Israeli soldiers. I have confirmed from a representative of Adi that this model is both issued by the Ministry of Defense and ordered by individual military units with their specific insignias. (As I understand it, they have several other styles that are also military issued as well. I'll post an update with that information when I get the details straight). Adi, as I discussed in the previous review below, is Israel’s only domestically produced watch. The factory is located on Kibbutz Yavne between Ashdod and Ashkelon, south of Tel Aviv. They make a number of different watches and I have now located an online dealer who proved both friendly and responsive to my inquiry about them. In addition, the folks at the factory have plans to augment their existing website with more English language content for those of us who aren't fluent in Hebrew.

The Adi IDF watch is an interesting piece of equipment. Visually, it’s a big watch, measuring 47mm in width (including the crown & pushers, 42mm without them) and 12mm in thickness. As style goes, The IDF has a purposeful, military look to it. (One poster on the Poor Man's Watch Forum said it looked Klingon :) It does exhibit that no-nonsense attitude). The watch uses an integrated rubber diver’s band that is secured by four pins with Seiko style collars. The case is advertised as being made of nickel-free stainless steel and has a matt finish on all but the screw-down case back. This Adi uses a domed mineral glass crystal that is protectively set below the level of a rotating bezel (as opposed to, say a Vostok Amphibia, whose crystal rises above the level of the bezel and can collect scratches more easily). The watch is rated at 200 meters water resistance, which is accomplished without using a screw-down crown. In terms of lume, this model uses what appears to be superluminova on its hands and face. (The lume on the hands lasted quite long in my experience but the face markers faded in a few hours. The lume is not in a Seiko diver's league, but its not a bad performance overall though.). If you like the feel of diver’s watches with rubber straps, you’ll like this watch. The case design is curved in such a way as to allow the watch to sit very firmly but comfortably on the wrist. Incidentally, the graphic on the face of this model is the emblem of the IDF paratroopers. Other unit insignias are available as well.

Internally, the Adi IDF is powered by a Miyota (Citizen) T201 quartz analog/digital chronograph movement. Accuracy is excellent, as is to be expected from a quartz movement, and the battery life is rated at three years. In terms of capability, there isn’t much that this watch can’t do, as timekeeping goes. The analog hands work predictably and the face includes a twenty-four hour scale should you need to track time that way. Where things get interesting is in the function of that digital display. The display includes a second time zone in either a 12 or 24 hour scale, the month, day and date, a chronograph timer (that is accurate to hundredths of a second), an alarm, an hourly chime and a display light. These various functions are controlled and set by the pushers on the sides of the watch and were not at all difficult to figure out. Lastly, the movement can be hacked if that feature is important to you.

The Adi IDF is an excellent field/diver watch. It is not hard to see why Adi markets this to the military. Its capabilities should prove quite useful in the field and it appears to be very rugged. Additionally, at less than $100, it won’t break the bank either. My one concern about this watch was the integrated band. Realistically, a rubber strap will need replacement after a few years. The folks at IsraeliProducts.com were helpful in providing me contact information directly to Adi where I learned that a replacement band could be obtained when the time comes without any issues. The people at Adi are apparently comfortable with providing that sort of service when it is required. Nice to see a company that stands behind its product. With that concern addressed, I have no problem recommending this watch for anyone who needs a solid sport/diver or is perhaps in the armed services as well.

ADI Watch Review

2008-02-29T20:07:00.007-05:00

Update-I have located a U.S. online dealer for Adi watches. They are called IsraeliProducts.com. Look under Clothing & Accessories for their selection of Adi watches.

As reviews go, this one was not easy to write. Most watch companies make some effort to market themselves to the outside world. That process greatly eases the task of researching a watch company. Adi, on the other hand, seems completely content in limiting itself to its domestic market. That is a shame in my opinion because they have a number of interesting models that, I think, would do well beyond their home market.

Adi, you see, is the only manufacturer of watches in State of Israel.
To make things more interesting, they are not produced at just any factory. Instead, Adi watches are made on a kibbutz, a sort of hybrid between a commune and a collective farm. Some kibbutzim (the plural of kibbutz) have branched out into light industry. The Kibbutz that makes Adi watches, called Yavne, is one of those. It is located south of the city of Tel Aviv between the cities of Ashdod and Ashkelon. The company has a website that is entirely in Hebrew, unfortunately. Their watches are sold at some jewelery stores in Israel including one at Ben Gurion Airport where I found the example pictured above. As far as I can tell, the only sellers of Adi watches outside of Israel are online and appear to be sort of grey market in their approach. Update-I have found a US based dealer for ADI watches. They are called Israeli Products.com . I picked up the ADI IDF watch that I also reviewed there. No problems at all dealing with them. Good folks.

The Adi I picked up is one of their dress watches. Its design reminded me of a Nomos, at least stylistically. It measures 38 mm in width (40 mm including the crown) 8 mm in thickness and uses a 20 mm wide band. The case is stainless steel with a snap-on back and a black bezel ring. The crystal is domed mineral glass and the band has a signed buckle. Water resistance is rated at 5 atm and the hands and face have no lume. Internally, this Adi uses a Seiko quartz movement that has a date function and can be hacked. The stock band, also branded Adi, is croc grain leather of reasonable quality.

As you may have surmised by now, there is little about this particular watch that is remarkable. It is in all respects a typical modern quartz watch. It would make an excellent daily wearer for most people, which is really just fine. Adi does have some other, more interesting, models that are reputedly sold to the Israeli Army. (I have also read that Singapore's military has purchased 8000 watches from them as well. I had a link to an article about this but it went inactive I'm afraid).

All in all, I find this particular watch to be a well made men's dress watch that, like most quartz watches, should provide simple, trouble-free service for a long time. The only issue I have with Adi is their low profile. I think that there is a market for them outside of Israel that they should make some effort to reach. Even an ebay store would be a good start.

Debaufre Ocean 1 Classic Edition Review

2008-02-05T12:08:00.007-05:00

On a Maratac Mil strap.

On a waterproof leather band

On a 22mm Nato for a change of pace

Lume shot

Have you ever had one of those moments when you make an annoying mistake in slow motion. Sort of like locking your keys in your car. You see the door closing, realize with panic what is happening, and then...clunk...the door claps shut with your keys locked inside. This is invariably followed by a few choice words and then with the feeling of resignation that you will now have to deal with the problem you just created.

You may be wondering about now what this has to do with the Debaufre Ocean 1 Classic Edition. Well, not long ago I acquired an Ocean 1 for a song before the Debaufre name change happened. It was a beautiful piece (note the use of past tense) and I regularly wore it when swimming with my kids. Well, one day my brother-in-law was over and he commented about how sweet the Ocean 1 was. That's when the car door went clunk. In a moment of brain lock I took off the watch, handed it to him and said, it's yours-enjoy it. (For those of you who know me from the Poor Man's Watch Forum, this is the same guy I gave my Seiko 009 to. At least I'm consistent). As he left my house, smiling at the new Swiss diver on his wrist, that little voice in the back of my head spoke up. You know the one; it says "IDIOT!! Why did you do that!!"

Well, since I really missed having a sub-homage diver, enter the Ocean 1 Classic Edition. As you can see from the pictures above, this is a really beautiful watch. The resemblance to a certain other diver of note is evident albeit with a few touches that differentiate them very nicely. The Classic Edition is an all stainless steel diver that is rated at 300 meters water resistance. Clearly water should never be a problem for this one. The crystal, which also includes a cyclops magnifier, is made of sapphire to ward off scratches and the lume is superluminova that remains visible in darkness for a few hours. (It's not in a Seiko diver's league but it is pretty good, better than the previous example that I had as a matter of fact). The Ocean 1's bracelet is a heavy solid-link design that includes solid end links (Hollow end-links are a pet peeve of mine as those of you who have read my other reviews already know. They are tinny and bend easily. It is amazing how many otherwise nice watches are ruined by them. Are they really that expensive to make?) In addition to the lume being improved on this model, the bracelet feels better too. The old Ocean 1 had a good but not great bracelet. The one on the Classic Edition is tighter and has a better clasp. The watch features a stylized screw-down crown with the Debaufre star logo cut into it. Lastly, the Ocean 1 features a unidirectional rotating bezel with an embedded luminous marker. (The reason a diver watch has a bezel that only spins counter-clockwise is for safety. If you are timing your dive, it is important that the bezel used to mark the safe limit of your available air not rotate clockwise if banged against something. That could confuse you into extending you dive time in a dangerous way).

Visually, the Ocean 1 is a big watch in keeping with today's trend toward large men's watches. It measures 42 mm in width (46 mm with the crown), is 13 mm in thickness, uses a 22 mm band lug width and weighs a tick under 7 ounces. The reason it is called the "Classic Edition" is because of the markers on the face. They are larger and more reminiscent of, ahem, a certain other diver.

Internally, the Ocean 1 Classic Edition is powered by a Sellita SW200 26 jewel automatic movement. For those of you who are scratching your heads and saying Sellita??, they are a Swiss movement company who provide movements to a number of watch manufacturers these days including Oris and Breitling among others. They also may represent the future of the non-Swatch Group movement suppliers. ETA, the division of the Swatch Group that supplied everyone and their uncle with movements up to now has decided to greatly restrict this practice. See: here for more details. This thread on Watchuseek.com also discusses this development. From a practical standpoint this matters little as the SW200 is a drop-in replacement for ETA's popular 2824-2 movement and its performance is apparently excellent. Service should not be any problem either. In terms of accuracy, my example is currently running at +8 seconds a day. Not bad at all for a mechanical watch right out of the box. Lastly, like the ETA 2824, the SW200 can be hacked and hand wound if those features matter to you.

In summary, the Ocean 1 Classic Edition is a very fine timepiece in all respects. It has a great looking "wrist presence" and is comfortable to wear, even after a full day. If, like me, you are realistically never going to own a certain other diver that looks similar to the Debaufre (alright-Rolex, there I said it) this one is a great way to go. With its heavy stainless steel construction and water resistance, everything about the Ocean 1 says first class. It really feels, and I know how fuzzy that word is, like a much more expensive piece than it is.

As an aside, the Classic Edition has only been produced in limited numbers according to the Debaufre website. If it is sold out, or you like one of the other Ocean 1 models available there, pretty much everything I've said here is equally applicable to them except for the style of the face markers.

Seiko SBBN007 Tuna Can Review

2008-01-25T23:52:00.005-05:00

On a waterproof leather band

On an aftermarket Watchadoo bracelet

On an aftermarket 22mm Nato

I love that line from Crocodile Dundee when he says "That's not a watch...THAT's a watch." All right, he may have said knife but if he had a Seiko Tuna Can, he would have said watch.

The Seiko SBBN007 is one of Seiko's Prospex Diver watches. The Prospex models are Seiko's upscale sports watches and the overall build quality, specifications and design are clearly at a much higher level than that of the more common 7S26 powered divers. All it really takes is one look at the SBBN007, nicknamed for obvious reasons the Tuna Can or just Tuna, and that difference becomes apparent. The fit and finish of the case and bezel on the Tuna are clearly a cut above what you find on models like the Monster. (Not that the Monster is a badly done watch at all. It’s a wonderful piece in its own right. The Tuna is just better, that's all).

The SBBN007 is a really massive timepiece. It's stainless steel case measures 48mm in diameter, not including the crown, 14mm in thickness and has a 22mm band lug width. It's crown is undecorated and, not surprisingly, screws down. It has a thick, domed, Hardlex crystal that is screwed down to the watch case for improved water resistance (Hardlex is Seiko's proprietary crystal material that is harder than regular mineral glass and more shatter resistant than sapphire (but not as scratch resistant). The lume is Seiko's Lumibright (Superluminova to Swiss watch fans. The Swiss actually license their lume paint from Seiko.) and lasts a long time for low light viewing (It's not quite in a Monster's league but it is close). The band is a rubber style diver's band, called the Daloaz, that is specially made for this watch, as I understand it. Water resistance is rated at 300 meters, which should certainly be deep enough for anyone.

Internally, a 7-jewel Seiko 7C46 quartz movement powers the Tuna. Battery life is rated at five years, which is really quite good. Accuracy, as is to be expected for a quartz movement, is excellent. So far, my example gained one second in the past week. I think I can live with that. The 7C46 is reputed to be a very strong movement as quartz movements go and, unlike many battery-powered movements, actually looks pretty good too. There is even some measure of decoration on this movement, a nice touch in my opinion. Additionally, the case back is inscribed with a set of numbers representing years. A small mark is engraved above the year that the Tuna’s battery should be changed. That is a neat little detail that further sets this watch apart from most others. It even has rate adjuster controls on the movement, not that I have the nerve to touch them.

The one characteristic of this watch that is most striking is the case design. It is essentially made of two main parts, a conventional watch case that holds the movement and an external shroud that surrounds it and is attached by screws. The result is a watch that really looks like a precision tool. The SBBN007 is one of a long series of shrouded Seiko divers that range from a 150-meter non-Prospex model to an all black model rated at 1000 meters water resistance (comforting to know that your watch will still work after your submarine has been crushed by water pressure).

I was very pleasantly surprised by how comfortable the Tuna is. For a really big watch, it does not feel unwieldy on the wrist at all. I think the reason for its good feel is that the lugs are very short. The watch wears closer to the wrist that way. It isn't dreadfully heavy either. All in all, even with its dimensions, it would still make for a good daily wearer.

The SBBN007 is generally not available in the U.S. through regular retail channels. I picked this one up, from a Japanese vendor named Seiya who was very good to deal with. The Tuna Can is not an inexpensive watch (this one set me back $479) but if you are ready to trade up to a higher end diver, I think its well worth it. Between its excellent quality and its striking and unique looks, it is a really exotic piece in my opinion. Seiko Tuna Can's have developed a very popular following and it's not hard to understand why. This model is that well done and I'm really expecting to enjoy it for a long time.

As an aside, if you really want in-depth information about this watch, or any Seiko for that matter, spend some time searching the Seiko-Citizen Watch Forum. There are some very knowledgeable folks over there.

Casio Super Illuminator Review

2007-11-30T11:05:00.000-05:00

Fire Phasers!

The lume in broad daylight

Bracelet detail

The Casio Super Illuminator came to me by way of a fellow member of the Poor Man’s Watch Forum. It was at the big annual meeting in NYC where I first saw this watch and I commented about how nice it looked. At that, this generous soul handed me the Casio and basically said, it’s yours. Good stuff to say the least.

Lume fans, listen up. If Super Luminova isn’t super enough, Indiglo doesn’t glow for you and tritium is too radioactive, this is your watch. The Super Illuminator has a pair of lights at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions on the face that activate when the second crown (at the 2 o’clock position) is pressed. We are talking flashlight style light here folks. If you can’t see the face of the Super Illuminator, you should probably check out the review of the Braille watch I did a while back. This Casio is that well lit.

In terms of other specs, the Super Illuminator’s stainless steel case measures(at least this example, there are other case styles) 43mm in width (47mm with the crown), 14mm in height, and 51mm lug to lug. The watch uses a semi-integral, stainless steel bracelet (folded link design but quite nicely done) whose lug width is 12mm. Water resistance is rated at 100 meters and the 3 o’clock crown screws down (but not the 2 o’clock crown oddly enough. I don’t think it has to for water resistance purposes since it doesn’t turn either). In addition to the powered lume system, the watch also has conventional luminous paint on its hands and face. Additionally, the watch has a thick dome shaped mineral glass crystal and the bezel will turn counter-clockwise. The movement is an otherwise unremarkable quartz model (I believe the reference number of the movement is 3304) that exhibits typical superb quartz level accuracy.

There is really no downside to the Casio Super Illuminator. It is inexpensive, rugged, accurate and remarkably easy to read in low light. As an added bonus, it looks very good too. (I don’t know why but the domed crystal reminds me of an Oris.) This watch would make a perfect daily wearer for anyone who wants a good solid watch with no hassles.

Citizen NY2300 Automatic Diver Review

2007-11-23T14:55:00.000-05:00

On an aftermarket Hadley Roma bracelet

On an aftermarket nylon Rhino band

On the stock rubber diver's band

Profile showing the short lugs

Profile showing the tapered case

The relatively unadorned caseback

Citizen is the world’s largest watch manufacturer and looking at their NY2300 diver’s watch, it’s not hard to see why. This model features an excellent combination of features for a really absurdly low price. There are several different versions of the NY2300. They differ in style and color in that some have a white face or gold lettering on the dial or an all black bezel. Mechanically, they are all identical however.

The NY2300 is a classic looking diver whose bezel (in this example) is another of the “Pepsi” type. (See the earlier reviewed Seiko diver). The watch measures 42mm in width (including the crown) 43mm lug to lug, 12m in thickness and has a 20mm band lug width. I was actually a bit surprised at these dimensions as the Citizen really looks and wears smaller than it is. I think this is because the lugs are short and taper in towards the body of the case. Additionally, the case itself narrows in width towards the caseback. The overall effect is to make the watch more compact in design and quite comfortable on the wrist.

In terms of specs, the NY2300 is powered by a Miyota 8200 21 jewel automatic movement (Miyota is to Citizen as ETA is to the Swatch Group. They make movements for Citizen’s line but also sell movements to third party manufacturers). The 8200 has been around since the 1970's and is quite well thought of. The movement can be hand wound but not hacked and includes both a day and date function. Accuracy on my example seems to be at about +20 seconds a day (which is not bad for a mechanical watch with no pretensions of chronometer level accuracy) but I have read that this movement can settle down in a few months with better accuracy. The NY2300 has a mineral glass crystal and is water resistant to 200 meters. The lume isn’t quite at a Seiko Monster’s level but it is very good nonetheless and remained clearly visible in darkness after a few hours. The stock band is a rubber diver’s model that is reasonably soft and comfortable. Lastly, the bezel has a very firm and precise action and will turn in only a counter clockwise direction like most good diver watches.

The NY2300 is in most respects very similar to many other automatic divers. Where it excels in comparison with other such watches, however, is in its price. The example seen here was new for well under $100.00 on the world wide tag sale. That is easily 1/3 less coin than similarly featured Seiko diver and a fraction of the cost of a Swiss automatic diver. The only obvious concession to economy is the choice of a rubber band, which realistically will need to be replaced after a few years of wear and tear. That being said, an after market bracelet or even a nylon nato style band can be gotten for very little money when the time comes.

To sum up, the Citizen NY2300 is an exceptionally good value that should give years of trouble free service. If you are looking for a solid water sports watch or just a good daily wearer or beater, but want to avoid a battery driven quartz watch, the NY2300 is a hard choice to argue with. It would also make an excellent introductory piece for someone interested in a quality mechanical watch who isn't prepared to commit to a large purchase at the outset.
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Vostok Neptune Review

2007-10-27T19:17:00.000-04:00

The Vostok Neptune is a colorful relative of Vostok’s popular Amphibia model. Like the Amphibia, the Neptune has a 2416b 31 jewel automatic movement and is rated at 200 meters water resistance. Both models feature a stainless steel case, Vostok’s typically thick acrylic crystal and the company’s standard weak lume. Where the two models differ is in the shape of the case and, in particular, the bracelet as well as the dial design. Additionally, to the best of my knowledge, Neptunes were not military issue Vostoks, despite using the same hardware.

As is obvious in the photos, the bracelet/lug design of the Neptune is unique to the Vostok line. Unlike most watches, the Neptune does not use a conventional lug and spring bar mounting system. Instead, the watch case has a notched end through which a pin is mounted. The end link of the bracelet is mounted on this pin to hold the bracelet on the watch. The overall look is rather unusual but nonetheless good looking to my eye. The obvious issue with this design, however, is that it would be very difficult to mount an aftermarket bracelet on a Neptune. That is a mark against the Neptune in my opinion because the stock bracelet is really just adequate. It is made of stainless steel and appears quite strong but it uses folded instead of solid links that frankly feel a bit tinny.

The most striking feature of the Neptune are the graphics on the watch face. The image is supposed to represent the sun setting over a lagoon. In addition, the chrome markers on the face are of the floating variety (they are mounted in such a way as to appear to float above the rest of the watch face). I can understand that the look wouldn’t appeal to everyone but for a Russian watch, this is positively festive in appearance. In addition to the watch face, the Neptune uses its own bezel design with a bezel insert, like many other diver style watches available. It should be noted that the bezel’s quality appears superior to that of most other Vostok models.

The Neptune measures 39mm in width (43mm including the crown) 43mm vertically (lug to lug so to speak), is 14mm in thickness and has a bracelet that is 20mm wide at the attachment point. For those who may be tempted to mount a custom bracelet or strap on this one, the central mounting notch/lug is just under a centimeter in width. Despite the quality of the bracelet, it is comfortable on the wrist (some folks have described the bracelet as a hair puller but I haven’t encountered that particular flaw). The Neptune was made in blue, green and brown. It doesn’t currently appear on Vostok’s website leading me to suspect that it has been discontinued. New models do appear on the bay however, and for a collector of Russian watches, the Neptune is certainly a welcome if offbeat addition.

Debaufre GMT 2 Review

2007-09-26T15:45:00.004-04:00

On a waterproof leather band

The Debaufre GMT 2 represents a number of firsts for me. It is my first Debaufre for starters (since the name change from Steinhart took place). It is also the first watch I own with a GMT capability. Lastly, it is my first Swiss watch with ETA's 2893-2 movement. These three firsts combine to make for a very pleasing experience.

As I mentioned in my previous review of the Ocean One diver, Steinhart had to change its name under the threat of litigation from another company who thought that their names sounded too alike for trademark purposes (Steinhausen is reportedly the company that had a problem with the name). Rather than roll the dice on a lawsuit, Steinhart took the high road and changed their name to Debaufre, in honor of an early watchmaker who developed several innovations in timepiece design. (For more information about the historical Debaufre watchmakers, this article discusses them about halfway down) After clearing their old inventory, Debaufre has now launched under its new name and brings a variety of interesting and affordable Swiss watches to the market through their website.

The GMT 2 being reviewed here is one of Debaufre's new designs. The watch features a stainless steel case, a stainless steel solid-link bracelet with a branded flip lock and screw pins (that also, thankfully, include solid end links; hollow end links tend to rattle and bend over time), a good sized, easily gripped screw-down crown and a fixed stainless steel bezel with a twenty-four hour scale engraved into it. The GMT 2 is a big watch in keeping with today's trend towards large men's watches. The case and bracelet feature a combination of brushed and polished stainless steel finishes that result in a very handsome overall appearance without being flashy or gaudy. In terms of size, the GMT 2 is 42mm in width (not including the crown), 50 mm lug to lug, 13 mm in thickness and has a 22 mm band lug width. This watch is no lightweight either. At just under seven ounces, it feels very solid on the wrist. The Debaufre also features a sapphire crystal with a cyclops magnifier (the best material to ward off scratches) and superluminova lume on the hands and watch face (the best glow in the dark method available short of tritium tubes). Water resistance is rated at 300 meters, which is seriously deep by anyone's standard. Don't worry about getting this one wet.

The most obviously interesting feature about the GMT 2 is that large red fourth hand on the face. That is the GMT hand. (For an in-depth discussion about Greenwich Mean Time see this page on Timezone). In a nutshell, the ETA 2893-2 movement in this watch can essentially track time in two different locations simultaneously. The conventional three hands (hour, minute & second) mark time locally while the GMT hand can be independently set to the time at some other spot on the planet. Once set, there is nothing else for the wearer to do. The two systems will track their respective time zones as long as the movement has stored power (And since this is an automatic movement, all one need do is wear the thing for it to keep going. There is no battery to croak on you). If you travel regularly or even make long distance calls to folks overseas, this feature is a wonderful convenience.

The ETA 2893-2 movement is considered one of ETA's high-end models and can be found in many well known brands. (ETA incidentally is the largest of the Swiss watch movement companies. Until recently they sold many movements to other companies for use in their watches. It is my understanding that this practice will be ending soon and many watch companies will have to look to other suppliers for movements. ( Aside-This is not a concern for buyers though. If a jeweler in east nowhere can service a movement, it will be an ETA movement). Sellita seems to be a popular choice and their SW200 movement has been well received.) Technically speaking, the 2893-2 movement is a 21 jewel automatic that runs at 28,800 bph with a 42 hour power reserve. In addition, the movement allows for hacking and hand winding. Subjectively speaking, this is one of the smoothest winding movements I have ever encountered. As someone who collects Russian watches, I am used to movements that sound like they are grinding up rocks as they are wound. This thing is so smooth that I thought it must be broken at first. It is really a pleasure to wind it up. The accuracy of this example is impressive, currently running at + 2 seconds after twenty-four hours.

To wrap this up, the GMT 2 is an all around terrific watch. It is solidly built and its water resistance and stainless steel construction pretty much assure that it will last for a very long time. It is also, to the best of my knowledge, the least expensive watch available with its combination of features (2893-2 GMT movement, stainless steel case, 300 meter water resistance & sapphire crystal). If you want the feel and performance of a high-end watch without having to worry about your significant other threatening to kill you for spending the money on one, this is your watch. That it looks as good as it does is icing on the cake.

As an aside, there is a nice article in this month’s issue of Watchtime about the name change from Steinhart to Debaufre.

Vostok Ministry Amphibia Review

2007-09-15T18:59:00.001-04:00

Bracelet detail

Caseback detail

The signed clasp

The subject of this review, the Vostok Ministry Amphibia is mechanically very similar to the previously reviewed Vostok Amphibia. Both watches feature 200 meter water resistance, a thick, domed acrylic crystal, Vostok's rugged 2416b automatic movement and the company's trademark crummy lume. Where these two models differ is in the case design. Both are made of stainless steel but that is where the similarity ends.

The Ministry Amphibia is much larger than previous Amphibia designs. The cushion case measures 40 mm in width (43 mm including the crown), 14 mm in thickness and 45mm lug to lug. Additionally, the band lug width of this model measures 22 mm instead of the usual Vostok 18 mm standard. The overall effect is a much more solid feel on the wrist. The stock bracelet on this model is a stainless steel folded link design. The overall quality of the bracelet is somewhat better than that of previous Vostok models. It’s still not great (nothing a nice Watchadoo couldn't improve on) but it suffices.

Ministry Amphibias aren't the most common type of Vostok and their availability can be hit or miss. I picked up this one on the global tag sale from Zenitar's store for a pretty reasonable price. If you are a Vostok or Russian watch collector, a Ministry Amphibia would make a fine addition to any collection to say nothing of a good daily wearer/beater.

Everest Watchworks Re-Lume Review

2007-08-20T23:27:00.001-04:00

After Mr. Parks worked his magic

After the re-lume. A Vostok with usable lume. A rare bird indeed!

The watch when I got it. Notice how the lume on the minute hand has crumbled away completely.

Not long ago, I received a ninteen-eighties vintage Vostok Komandirskie as a gift. The watch itself was in almost new-old-stock condition except for the lume. It had completely fallen off the minute hand and was powdering on the face as well. As many collectors of Russian watches already know, Vostok's stock lume is, quite possibly, the worst in the industry. It is, at best, weak and will barely remain visible for an hour after exposure to light, if it works at all. The condition of the lume on this example, however, presented me with a perfect opportunity to do a little upgrading to this common Vostok problem.

Like the old Omega Seamaster I reviewed earlier, I decided to send this Vostok off for a re-lume to Kent Parks at Everest Watchworks. Kent is a true craftsman who does high quality work for very reasonable prices. In the instant case, he was not only able to repaint the lume on the hands and face but also had an off white lume color available that looked consistent with the age of the watch. The new superluminova paint Kent applied glows brightly after exposure to light in a manner that a stock Vostok could never manage and remains visible for hours in the dark. Mission accomplished!

If you have an old watch that you would like to rejuvenate (this assumes that all is well mechanically) I think you will be very happy with the job that Everest Watchworks can do. In the instant case, I think that I paid $75 for this job. (Which is probably as much as a nos Vostok from this period runs these days admittedly. Obviously the relative cost of this sort of work needs to be factored against the value of the watch unless the piece is an heirloom or has some other sentimental value.) I am very happy with the results and now proudly own one of, perhaps, half a dozen Vostoks with quality lume worldwide :)

Casio G-Shock MTG-900 Review

2007-07-19T21:59:00.001-04:00

The last time I had a new digital watch, digital watches were themselves a new idea. I can't remember what brand it was but I do recall that it had a green LED display and the batteries didn't last very long. You had to push a button to read the thing and it couldn't do much more than display the time but it was pretty neat for its day. Digital watches have advanced just a bit since then. The G-Shock being reviewed here is, without a doubt, the most sophisticated watch I own and Casio has even more advanced models available.

The Casio G-Shock line has earned an amazing reputation for durability over the last twenty-five years or so. The stories of abuse that these watches can take are really remarkable (see this thread at Watchuseek.com. According to the Wikipedia, the G-Shock was originally designed to be at least capable of surviving a 10 meter fall, 10bar water immersion and have a ten year battery life. The basic premise is that the watch employs a series of shock absorbers within the case that keep impacts from damaging the movement (called a module in Casio-speak). In addition to the ability to resist shocks, the case is also sealed against water and dust. As good as those original specs were, the current line goes even further when it comes to ruggedness. If you are tough on your watches, get a G-Shock-plain and simple.

The MTG-900 being reviewed her is a truly amazing piece of equipment. It has the usual G-Shock impact/shock protection and is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters, which should be deep enough for anyone. But, in addition to its toughness, this model has a two features that really make it special. First off, the watch is solar charged. The user need only wear the MTG-900 and its batteries will be kept alive through exposure to light. Like Citizen's Eco Drive line, the batteries in the MTG-900 should never need to be changed. As if that wasn't a nice enough plum though, this G-Shock goes it one better-it has atomic clock accuracy. No, there is no radioactive isotope decaying in the case. Instead, the MTG-900 has a tiny radio receiver inside it that picks up signals from the U.S. Atomic clock in Colorado and resets itself to atomic time automatically four times a day (it can also be reset to the atomic clock's signal at any time by pressing a button should you really be concerned about accuracy). As a consequence of owning a watch like this, I can now honestly say that I really know what time it is for the first time in my life.

Externally, the MTG-900 measures 44mm in width, 50mm lug to lug, and 15mm in thickness. The bracelet is integral to the case and tapers from 22mm to 17mm in thickness. The crystal is made of mineral glass and is recessed below a chrome plated bezel. The stainless steel bracelet of this G-Shock is unusual and very well done. It is not a solid link design but actually looks and wears like one albeit with a lighter weight which actually makes it very comfortable. There are cut-outs on the inside of each link to make adjusting the bracelet's size by removing links very easy and I do wish that other manufacturers would adopt a design like this. The clasp appears to be very strong and well-designed. Like most G-Shocks, the actual watch case is made of impact resistant plastic which on this model is colored to match the stainless steel color of the bracelet.

Timekeeping, as you can imagine with a watch like this, is flawless. For the heck of it, I opened up the time.gov page and compared it with the time on the G-Shock-spot on. The default display gives you the day, date (whose calendar is pre-programmed until the year 2039), month, hours, minutes, seconds, battery charge status and atomic time synchronization status. In addition, to the main screen (for lack of a better way to describe it) the MTG-900's other controls support 29 time zones (set by city location), 4 daily alarms and a snooze alarm, a time recorder that can remember 30 different time records, a stopwatch and an hourly time signal. If for some reason you keep this watch in the dark for extended periods, the battery will last for eleven months without light once fully charged (The watch goes into a power save mode which appears to shut off the display. Pressing a control will wake it up). Lastly, the watch face has a backlight that can operate in one of two ways. It can be manually activated by pressing the large "G" button below what would be the 6 o'clock position on the watch case. Additionally, the watch has a sort of smart light sensor built into it that will activate the backlight in low light conditions if the wearer quickly pivots the watch towards him/herself. Basically, flick your wrist and the light will turn on for a few seconds.

The MTG-900 is one of the most distinctive looking watches I have ever seen. It truly looks like nothing else out there while still managing to look very good, albeit it a high tech way. (One friend commented that it looked vaguely Klingon in style. I wouldn't disagree with that. The styling is both tough and aggressive). I would not recommend wearing a watch like this under a dress shirt (it is thick enough that the cuff button might not close) but, other than that situation, this G-Shock has no downside. It really does it all very well.

Steinhart/Debaufre Ocean One Review

2007-07-05T23:27:00.000-04:00

The subject of this review, the Ocean One, is the first Swiss made automatic diver I have owned. (The previously reviewed Sandoz was only water resistant to 100 meters and thus was not fully a diver’s watch.) The watch came to me by virtue of a big sale that the folks at Steinhart are holding. The reason for the sale is related to that second name in the review title-Debaufre. It seems that another watchmaker(Steinhausen-whose watches are, to my knowledge, powered by Chinese made movements and look nothing like Steinhart’s) apparently felt that the names of the two companies were too close for trademark comfort, so to speak. Rather than spend lots of time and money defending themselves against a threatened lawsuit (and suits of this nature can drag on for years) Steinhart chose to change the name of their company. The name they went with (after making sure there would be no similar trade name issues) is Debaufre. Peter Debaufre was a watchmaker in the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries who developed a new type of escapement mechanism and was the first watchmaker to set moving parts into jeweled pivots to cut friction and improve durability. The Steinhart folks feel that this is a fitting name that honors a largely ignored detail of watch making past. It’s a gutsy move on their part and isn’t without risk, the good will and P.R. that they have built up so far is now on the line. I personally wish them the best of luck as I have been a big fan of their watches. Anyway, with the change, the newly named company had an inventory of watches on hand that still had the old name and now needed to be to be sold off. Thus the aforementioned sale, which I think is still going on at the time of this writing. I won’t say what I paid for this one but the price was substantially lower than what it was a few months ago, and that original price was pretty good then.

On to the watch itself. The Ocean One is a big stainless steel watch, stylistically modeled on the Rolex Submariner but larger all around. The watch measures 42mm in width (46mm including the crown), 51mm lug to lug, 22mm band lug width and 14mm thick. The crystal is sapphire (best to ward off scratches) and includes a cyclops magnifier over the date window (the first I have owned that actually provides useful magnification). Internally, the Ocean One is powered by ETA’s 2824-2 25 jewel automatic movement, a proven workhorse known for its durability and accuracy. The lume on the hands and face is white superluminova, the best type short of tritium tubes. In my observation it remained visible for a few hours in darkness, more than adequate for most users. As for water resistance, the Ocean One is rated at 300 meters, which is more than high enough for just about anyone. 300 meters is seriously deep. The bezel rotates in a counter-clockwise direction only, with a nice firm action and has an embedded luminous marker. (The bezel on a diver’s watch should never move in a clockwise direction. If knocked out of position underwater it could accidentally extend a dive time past the safe limit of available air in the tank). The watch uses a heavy, solid link bracelet which thankfully included solid end links. (I am not a big fan of hollow end links, they tend to rattle and bend). The clasp is a flip lock design, that while not the best one of its type that I have seen (the adjustment range could be better), does get the job done well enough. (I have heard from the folks at Steinhart/Debaufre that the new models have an improved bracelet). Lastly, the watch can be hacked and hand wound and includes a nice sized, signed crown.

The Ocean One wears very comfortably despite its large size. In my opinion, anyone who appreciates nice watches would find a lot to like here . If, like me, you admire the looks of a Rolex diver but don’t have the coin for one (my kids and my $ go to private school I’m afraid) but don’t want to buy an obvious Rolex copy, the Ocean One is an excellent choice. It looks great, is quite accurate and should have no trouble surviving extended exposure to water. Best of all, it won’t break the bank. Grab one while you can.

Vostok Komandirskie 3AKA3 Review

2007-05-20T23:26:00.000-04:00

On a Nilsen bund strap

This review is, in many respects, similar to the Vostok Komandirskie review that I did a few years back. However, there have been so many new old stock (NOS) examples of this model turning up on the global tag sale that I thought it would be a good idea to not only acquire an example but to see just what you get with one of these older models.
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The main feature about this particular Vostok that interested me is the lettering on the dial to the left of the 6 o'clock position. There the notation 3AKA3 appears. What this means is that this example was specifically ordered by the Soviet ministry of defense to be issued to a soldier. (It never was issued, however, and I acquired it new in the box with the tag still on and the paperwork included.) Models with the 3AKA3 designation are rarer than ordinary Vostoks which are simply labeled as being made in CCCP or, these days, Russia.
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This example's case measures 40mm in width (43 mm with the crown), 45 mm lug to lug, 11 mm in thickness and has an 18 mm band lug width. Unlike the previously reviewed model, this one has a gold-tone case (actually plated with titanium nitride). The movement is a Vostok workhorse, the 17 jewel 2414A that has a reputation for being very rugged. The watch uses a typical thick Vostok acrylic crystal and has the company's signature two-piece back. So far, it has been running quite well, gaining about 20 seconds a day. (That could probably be improved on with regulation, to say nothing about a cleaning and oiling given this model's age, but I can live with it.)
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In comparison to the newer Komandirskie I reviewed earlier, this older model is very similar. They both use the same movement and share the same overall design. The only significant differences are that the older Vostok has a larger crown (that resembles the crown used by the Amphibia series of Vostoks), and the shape of the bezel is somewhat different. The lume on the 3AKA3 seems pretty much inactive, glowing for only a few minutes after exposure to light, but even new Vostoks have lousy lume too. One detail about the old Vostok does merit mention though. The overall quality of the watchcase and it’s plating in particular, seems superior to that of the newer models. It just looks better finished to my eye. Other than that though, these watches clearly emerged from the same factory.
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In summary, I'm glad I finally got my hands on one of these. It is both a nice field watch and a historically interesting piece. If you are thinking about picking up one, and you have dabbled in Russian watches before, be forewarned-the time when these 3AKA3s could be had for $20 is over. Expect to see nice examples in the $60-$120 range these days, possibly even more. The market is finally catching up to even Russian watches I'm afraid, although there are still buys to be had.

Timex Maratac Compass AQC-Watch Review

2007-04-01T10:30:00.003-04:00

On an aftermarket nylon Mil type band

On a 4-ring Rhino band.

Not the prettiest of movements but it is what it is. Movement is stamped TMX, 301, Philippines

On the Maratac strap

Face Detail

Crown & Compass controls

Fixed Lug Bars

Caseback Detail

When I sat down to write this review I realized that I was feeling a bit nostalgic. The last time I had a new Timex, they were still running those ads with the elephant. I remember mine pretty well. It was a stemwinder with a white face, black Arabic numerals and a black leather band on a chrome-plated case. It wasn't an expensive watch (what Timex ever really was) but it was my first new watch and I really loved it. I wore it from grade school through high school and it ran like a charm. Things have changed somewhat since those days at Timex but the one thing that's still the same is that you get a lot of watch for your money.

You might think that Timex needs no introduction as brands go. They've been around for a long time, after all, and they are available everywhere. That pretty much sums up how I felt about them until recently. What made me take more notice of them was a big article about the company in the August 2006 edition of IW magazine (whose archives are generously available on their website). What I learned is that Timex has been around since the 1850's, is headquartered in Connecticut and uses movements that are designed in Germany, built in France and cased in the Philippines. A very international entity, to say the least with a long and interesting history. Timex's German facility is what remains of the old Laco and Durowe watchmakers, which Timex (then called US Time) bought in the 1950s. In addition to the Timex brand, the Timex group also includes Guess, Nautica, Timberland, Ecko, FCUK, Reebok, Liz Clairborne and Versace brands. The article in question stated that it is estimated that Timex is the fifth or sixth largest watch manufacturer in the world. In an effort to enter the luxury market, Timex is now releasing a new high-end brand called the TX, which includes an attractive flyback chronograph among other models.

The Timex Maratac being reviewed here is an interesting model. Maratac, the maker of extremely tough watchbands, had Timex make this model for them to market to American military forces. The watch has a matt finished stainless steel case with a bi-directional bezel (that has an embedded luminous marker). The watchcase measures 43mm in width (including the crown), 47mm lug to lug, 13mm in thickness and has a 20mm band lug width. The crystal is made of mineral glass and water resistance is rated at 100 meters. The watch has fixed spring bars (non removable) like many watches meant for military use and ships (not surprisingly) with a nylon Maratac band. There are two lume systems on this watch. The hour and minute hand are coated with what appears to be superluminova that lasts for a few hours after exposure to light. Also included is Timex's Indiglo lume, which is essentially a very fancy electric backlight for the whole watch face. Pressing in the crown activates it and it illuminates the dial for a few seconds before automatically shutting off. It should be noted that this watch is really a modified version of the Timex Expedition model. The differences are the fixed lug bars, a sterile watch face (easier to read without any words written on it) and a straight instead of tapered lug shape. That and the included Maratac band and the Maratac name on the case back.

In terms of performance, The Maratac Timex is typical of many quartz watches in most respects. Accuracy is excellent as is to be expected and the watch includes a date function. This model does have one very unusual feature, however. It also includes an electronic compass. A long fourth hand on the face is, in fact, a compass needle that is activated by pressing either of the buttons along side the crown (They look like chrono pushers but that's not what those buttons are for. The reason for having two of them is to allow you to set a local declination angle instead of just letting the needle point to magnetic north. One button advances the needle, the other retards it). The compass has to be calibrated before being first used, a process that takes less than a minute. Once done, the watch will give a compass reading when activated on a flat surface. It isn't hard to see why Maratac thought this watch would be useful to soldiers.

The Timex Maratac seems as nicely made as any mid-level watch I have encountered. Nothing about it says cheap or disposable. If the overall quality I see on this model is indicative of what the TX line will be like then Timex should do well with them. This watch is, in the final analysis, a nice solid field watch and, if the idea of having a compass with you at all times is appealing, this one's for you. It would make an excellent daily wearer too.

P.S.-I picked this one up here.

Poljot Buran Chronograph Review

2007-03-07T16:24:00.000-05:00

On one of Nilsen's Bund straps

The history of early aviation would not be complete without mentioning the aviator's chronograph. Early aircraft did not include much in the way of instrumentation but in order to properly navigate, however, accurate timekeeping was essential. One solution that was hit upon was the use of a chronograph watch. Many well known companies produced watches for this purpose (Breitling probably being the most famous example). The Buran Chronograph falls into this category of watches as well.

The story of how this particular design came to be produced by Russia is historically interesting. Originally the precursor to this watch was manufactured in Germany (I believe by Tutima using a Urofa chronograph movement-see: Reissue Issues). When WWII ended, the factory that produced this type of chronograph fell into Soviet hands. The Russians liked what they found and transported the assembly line back to Moscow. Production then began on a Russian version of the German chronograph which they called the Kirova (presumably named after Sergei Kirov). The Buran Chronograph being reviewed here is one of two re-issues of that German designed watch. (A more historically correct version, appropriately called the Kirova was produced along with the Buran (whose name means "Storm" I believe in Russian and may possibly be named after the Buran space shuttle). Irrespective of the name, however, the appearance of the models with their coin-edge bezels is unmistakably based on the old Tutima design. The re-issues do not use the Urofa movement however.

The Buran Chronograph has a matt finished stainless steel case that measures 40mm in width (not including the crown), 13mm in thickness, 52mm lug to lug, and has a 20mm band lug width. The crystal is made of mineral glass. (It should be noted that there is a smaller, 37mm version of this watch. If you are considering purchasing one of these, ensure that you get the right sized model.) The Buran's crown is particularly prominent and has the Poljot logo engraved on it. Internally, this re-issue is powered by a Poljot 3133 23 jewel hand wound movement. (The 3133 is based on the Swiss Valjoux 7734. The Russians bought this movement and its assembly line from the Swiss in the mid-seventies. Additionally, Poljot appears to have sold the tooling for the 3133 to another Russian company called Maktime . It is still being made and is widely used in Russian chronographs to this day.) The action of my example is very smooth and the 3133 has a long power reserve, generally in excess of 50 hours. The bezel on this Buran rotates freely in both directions (I have heard that on some versions of this watch the bezel is fixed) and the hands and numerals on the watch face appear to use superluminova lume which works quite well. In a pleasant surprise for a Russian watch, the Buran arrived on a leather band of reasonably good quality with a signed clasp. In terms of accuracy, my example seems to gain about 20 seconds a day. I can live with that but a jeweler might be able to improve the accuracy with regulation.

At one time, Russian watches were ridiculously affordable for what they delivered. That state of affairs has, sadly, ended. While it is still possible to find a good buy on the bay and elsewhere, there is no seriously denying that Russian watches, the chronographs in particular, have become very pricey. While a Russian chronograph is still considerably more affordable than its Swiss counterparts, with prices commonly exceeding $400.00, they are no longer an impulse buy. As much as I miss seeing $100.00 Sturmanskies and the like, it really isn’t all that surprising that this market would eventually even out. With the ruble gaining strength on Russia’s oil revenues, there was really no other outcome. The example you see here was a fluke in my opinion. I recently acquired it, new in the box, for well under $180.00.

Like so many other Russian timepieces, the Buran Chronograph has the type of rich and interesting history that makes watch collecting so enjoyable to me. It is one of those pieces whose old-fashioned looks immediately remind me of its origins. In some ways, I find the process of learning about the history of a watch to be as enjoyable as actually acquiring a new piece for my collection. When it comes to having an interesting past, Russian watches rarely disappoint.

P.S.-If you are really interested in Russian watches, be sure to visit Mark Gordon's excellent site. His collection is really remarkable

Picked up this NOS Vostok

2006-12-03T23:02:00.000-05:00

Not really a full review this time. This one is functionally the same as the earlier reviewed Komandirskie. Same 2414A handwound 17 jewel movement. Basic design is very similar as well. This one is gold colored though. I don't know if it is brass or some other sort of plating that is used but the effect is visually striking. This particluar one is NOS (new old stock). Its dial has CCCP written on it but the included papers indicate a 1992 manufacture date. Probably was assembled from old, pre-collapse Soviet stock. Arrived in virtually mint condition. Not bad for $21.50. I think the bund strap works well with it.

Steinhart Militare UT 6498 Review

2006-10-18T00:42:00.002-04:00

UPDATE-Steinhart/Debaufre released a small crown version of this model for a while. Thanks to the generosity of a fellow member of the Poor Man's Watch Forum, I have that crown, free of charge :) . Here it is fitted to the Militare. I think it looks terrific.

On a Nilsen aviator for a change of pace. This watch would work well with many military style watchbands.

Update: If you are wondering who Steinhart is or are having a hard time tracking the company down, point your browser to Debaufre . After another company threatened to sure Steinhart because they thought that their name and the Steinhart name were too close, Steinhart decided to change their name to Debaufre (an early watch maker who pioneered several innovations in design). Nothing else has changed (aside from models being offered), the service and value are still excellent.

I am starting to associate the arrival of a new Steinhart with good developments in my life. My last one, the World Traveler, arrived a few days before my birthday. The subject of this review, the Militare, has come to me just days before the start of a new job (more $$, better benefits, all that stuff). I view its arrival as a harbinger of good things to come.

I am a sucker for watches with subdials. There is something about that style that says old world class to me. Until now though, I have not owned a Swiss watch with this feature. My newly acquired Steinhart Militare UT 6498 perfectly fills that void. As its name implies, the Militare is designed as an ode to early military watches. The large onion crown, in particular, recalls military watch styles from the time of both of the world wars. (See examples here)
The Militare is a large and attractive watch that measures 42mm in width (50mm with the crown), 50 mm lug to lug, 10 mm in thickness and uses a 22mm lug band width. The watchcase is made of stainless steel and is equipped with a display back that gives a wonderful view of the movement. The crystal on the Militare is made from sapphire, the best material to make a watch crystal from in terms of scratch resistance. The hands and indices on the face are coated with superluminova (a high quality glow-in-the-dark paint) that after 30 seconds of continuous exposure to a light bulb remained visible for slightly more than six hours in darkness. The indices on the face incidentally have both a 12 and 24 hour scale if that is important to you. Water resistance is rated at 5 atm, which should be fine provided you don’t go diving with it. The watch comes with a comfortable, well-made, black leather band that has a signed deployment clasp.

Internally, the Militare is powered by a Unitas 6498 17 jewel hand wound movement. The Unitas is an old and very well thought of Swiss watch movement. It was originally developed by the Swiss firm of Auguste Reymonde in the 1950’s as a pocket watch movement. Today, it is manufactured by the Swiss movement maker ETA. (For a terrific history of the Unitas and Auguste Reymonde, see: this site) The movement’s large size and robust performance has made it a popular choice for many watch manufacturers these days. The example in the Militare is decorated with an engine turned finish and blued screws and makes for a nice view through the display back. The 6498 does not have a hacking feature if that matters to you. Accuracy of my example appears to be in the neighborhood of ten seconds daily, which is just fine.

To say that I like this watch would be an understatement. It has a unique look to it that pays homage to vintage military timepieces but still manages to look original. It appears to be very well assembled and contains a movement that has a rich heritage. Price wise, this one falls in the middle of Steinhart’s line. Currently listed at $695.00, the Militare is a fine watch and a good buy in my opinion. (Unitas equipped watches run the gamut from a low of $200 to well up into the thousands) I fully expect to get many years of enjoyment from this watch and its apparent high quality speaks very well of Steinhart as a company.

(As an aside, the October 2006 edition of iW (International Watch) magazine has a very nice article about Steinhart. If you want more information about the brand, this would be a good read. Additionally, Steinhart is acquiring a reputation for truly world class customer service. E-mails are returned promptly and any issues or questions are dealt with in a straightforward way. These folks really want their customers to be happy and they provide a level of service that I have frankly never encountered before. If the personal touch matters to you, you’ll love this company).

Raketa 24 Hour Watch Review

2006-09-05T22:05:00.000-04:00

On a new black, curved-end, leather band

On a bund strap

The movement

This is the first watch I have gotten since I was a child that required me to learn how to tell time again. I have pretty much mastered it now but it took a while before I could quickly glance at it and read the time. The trick is to remember that each quarter of the dial represents six hours, not three as it is on a conventional watch face. The watch came to me by way of a trade with a fellow member of the Poor Man’s Watch Forum. This particular model dates from Soviet times but is in nearly flawless shape and modern versions are readily available today. As such, I believe that this example will pretty fairly represent what current Raketa 24 hour watches are like.

The Raketa 24 hour is a visually striking watch that really looks like nothing else I have ever owned. The watch measures 39mm in width (42mm including the crown), 42mm lug to lug, 12mm in height and uses an 18mm band. The watch wears larger than its dimensions would suggest, however, due to a very thin chrome bezel (really almost an all-dial design) and the relatively thin 18mm band width. The watch face has no lume and the hands are very thin. Water resistance appears to be non-existent, a common trait among Raketas (Someone once commented that if a Raketa says “Water Resistance 30 Meters” on the back, it means don’t get it within 30 meters of water.) In addition to its 24 hour time scale, this model also has an internally adjustable chapter ring that is marked with several world cities (and a rather odd assortment at that-Novosibirsk for instance) as well as the names of the ice research stations of Antarctica. (When was the last time you thought about McMurdo Station, if ever.) The chapter ring is adjustable via a second crown at the 4:00 position. The Raketa’s case appears to be made of chrome plated brass with a stainless steel back. The domed crystal appears to be acrylic and is mounted as a unit in a removable chrome plated bezel piece.

The Raketa 24 hour is powered by a 19 jewel model 2623h hand wound movement. Accuracy for this example is pretty good (considering its age again) at about +30 seconds daily. The movement itself has a completely unadorned appearance, even more so than in most Russian watches.

I have read that 24 hour watches are popular in Russia because the country is so large that it has over a dozen time zones. Its easier to remember where one day begins and another ends in such an environment if you use a 24 hour scale. Additionally, much of Russia lies in the arctic circle where conventions like am and pm don’t have much meaning. That also, needless to say, applies to the poles as well. It is also a useful convention for both pilots and the military (although I am not aware of Raketas being used by either the old Soviet or current Russian armed forces.)

The Raketa 24 hour is undeniably an unusual piece. It isn’t every day that you find a watch with Ekaterinburg written on the dial after all. I wouldn’t personally use it as a daily wearer although it would work fine in that role (just be prepared to mentally translate the time to the 12 hour scale if someone asks you for it.) It appears to be quite well made (Raketa movements are anecdotally reputed to be among Russia’s best) and as long as it is kept dry, it should last for a long time.

Uzi Protector Tritium Watch Review

2006-07-17T22:10:00.000-04:00

The original band

On the Nato band

The case back

It occurred to me a few weeks ago that of all the watches I own, none of them really qualified as something I would deliberately wear while doing heavy work or during one sporting activity or another. I'm not saying that I don't have some examples that can stand up to heavy abuse (Vostoks in particular are known for their robustness), but I wouldn't ordinarily choose to wear one if I was reasonably sure it was going to be banged around. Now it is true I could have filled this gap with a Casio G-Shock or a Timex Ironman (and a G-Shock is still very much on my "one of these days" list), but I stumbled on to the Uzi Protector and it looked like it would foot the bill nicely.

The Uzi Protector is one of two watch models sold by Uzi Gear, the other model being the more upscale Defender. Uzi Gear itself appears to be either affiliated with or a subsidiary of Campco who’s url appears on the back of the watch. In addition to watches, Uzi Gear sells a number of products that appeal to law enforcement including handcuffs, pepper spray and stun guns. The brand itself is named after Uziel Gal, inventor of the Uzi sub-machine gun, and the Uzi Gear website has a short bio of him online.

On to the watch now. The Uzi Protector is a nylon cased quartz watch with a unidirectional rotating bezel and a mineral glass crystal. The watch measures 42mm in width (not including the crown, 15mm in thickness, 44mm lug to lug and has a 22mm band lug width. The case back is made of stainless steel and the crown screws down. Water resistance is rated at 200 meters and the stated battery life is 36 months. The second hand can be hacked if that is important to you and the watch has a date function. The Protector is advertised as having a movement that includes Swiss components and the case back indicates that the movement was assembled in Thailand. While I haven't opened the case to check (I don't want to risk spoiling the water resistance), these specifications are consistent with a Ronda Powertech 585 movement. As an aside Ronda is a Swiss movement company with a large factory in Thailand in addition to its Swiss facilities.

By now you have probably realized that there is nothing really remarkable about the basic specs of the Uzi. There are, however, two characteristics to this watch that make it a keeper. The first is the tritium tube lume. Like the earlier reviewed Marathon watch, the Uzi has small vials of gaseous tritium on its hands and face. This is, in my opinion, the very best night visibility system for a watch. A watch with tritium tubes will glow continuously for many years without first being exposed to light. The glow isn't intense like freshly charged conventional watch lume (e.g. superluminova) but is instead a cool consistent glow that does not fade away in a few minutes or hours. If nighttime visibility matters to you, this system is the way to go. The tritium vials on this model are positioned on the hour and minute hands and at the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions on the face (two orange tubes are used to mark 12:00). There are also conventional superluminova paint markers at the other numbers on the dial and on the second hand.

The second noteworthy aspect of the Uzi is its price. Until I encountered this brand, the least costly tritium lume watch around was Marathon's field watch, which cost about $100. The Uzi, however, retails for $89.95 through the company's website. While that's only a $10 difference, the Uzi has a much higher water resistance rating, 200 meters vs the Marathon's 30 meters, and the Uzi is physically much larger, 42mm compared to the Marathon's 36mm. In addition, while the retail price for this model is really quite low, even better deals can be found if you are persistent. Mine was, new in the box, for about half the retail price on ebay. This model is available with either a nylon/Velcro strap or a rubber diver’s band. I got the nylon band and while it is comfortable and good looking, I swapped it for a nato style band. I think it gives the watch a stealthy/military look but that is just a matter of personal preference. There is nothing wrong with the stock band.

In all other respects the Uzi Protector is a typical quartz watch. Its accuracy has been excellent so far (remarkable really-I hacked this watch to atomic time five days ago and so far it is spot on). It appears to be quite rugged and would make a good beater/sports watch. If you have been considering a tritium vial watch but are put off by the prices of other brands with this feature (Luminox, Traser, Ball, etc.) the Uzi Protector is a great way to go.

As an aside, I apologize for not posting a lume shot. My nice old Fuji F700 camera died (the one I photographed the Marathon's lume with) and the Olympus FE-130 cheapie that I replaced it with just can't get it done. One of these days I'll have to spring for a good camera again.

Steinhart World Traveler Chronograph Review

2006-06-06T10:54:00.002-04:00

On an aftermarket 22mm aviator band. Buttery soft waterproof leather. Got it at Central Watch Band Stand in Grand Central Station. Highly recommended.

On a nylon Nato band for hot weather.

Update: If you are wondering who Steinhart is or are having a hard time tracking the company down, point your browser to Debaufre . After another company threatened to sure Steinhart because they thought that their name and the Steinhart name were too close, Steinhart decided to change their name to Debaufre (an early watch maker who pioneered several innovations in design). Nothing else has changed (aside from models being offered), the service and value are still excellent.

It has been a long time since I had the opportunity to open a box with a brand new Swiss watch inside. There are few events that are as nice for a watch collector. (OK, it’s not up there with the arrival of my kids, my wedding, graduating from law school or other such big life events. It probably rates just a few clicks below on the happiness meter. Maybe.) The subject of this review, the Steinhart World Traveler, arrived new-in-the-box courtesy of Steinhart and the Poor Man's Watch Forum (PMWF). The watch was a prize that I won in the PMWF Ascension Contest. (The subject was the history of New York if anyone is interested.) I still can't believe that I won this beauty and I wish to thank both Steinhart and PMWF for making it possible (that it arrived a few days before my birthday was icing on the cake).

Before I launch into the review, I think that an introduction to Steinhart is in order as the company's presence in the United States is still pretty new. The firm was founded by Gunter Steinhart (who I believe is also associated with the Robert watch brand of Germany see: Robert Imprint page). Steinhart watches are made in Switzerland and are marketed in the U.S. online through the Steinhart website. The company offers an interesting line of watches that include several Unitas based vintage military style models, some automatic diver models (including a GMT variant) an automatic aviator watch and the chronograph model being reviewed here. Update-Steinhart has also introduced a fine looking new line of mechanical chronographs. The models all have a generally upscale look and feature set. It seems that Steinhart is still in the early stage of its marketing efforts (at least in the U.S.) and I would not be surprised to see the brand achieve a greater market share in the future. Incidentally, the World Traveler is Steinhart's only quartz regulated model and, as such, is sort of their entry level piece. That it is as nicely made as it is speaks well of the rest of their line. Update: Steinhart has changed it's name to Debaufre. Apparently another watch company felt that the name Steinhart was too close for trademark comfort to their's and threatened to sue. Rather than face a lawsuit, the Steinhart folks adopted a new name.

The World Traveler is a large stainless steel aviator style chronograph whose overall look is consistent with the trend towards big watches these days. The watch measures 42mm in width (49mm from crown to crown), 11mm in height, 51mm lug to lug and has a 22mm band lug width. My watch shipped with two bands, a nubuck leather band and a thickly padded model (pictured) with a large signed buckle. (Note to Steinhart, if you are only going to ship this watch with one band in the future, make it the second one). The World Traveler has two crowns. The 3 o'clock crown is conventional while the 9 o'clock crown adjusts an internal chapter ring. The lume on the face and hands appears to be superluminova and, while not in the league of a Seiko diver (what is really?), it remains visible in the dark for at least five hours by my observation. The case appears to be a three piece design, i.e. the bezel/crystal is part of a removable unit and the back snaps on. The watch is rated at 5atm water resistance which is fine as this isn't a diver's watch. Lastly, the crystal is made of mineral glass which is adequate but not as scratch resistant as a sapphire crystal (although it is less expensive which counts too I suppose).

Internally, the World Traveler is powered by a Ronda 5040.B 13 jewel quartz chronograph movement. As an aside, Steinhart deserves praise for both inscribing the movement type on the case back and further for including in the box a copy of Rhonda's manual for the movement. (It took me months to find a third party's documentation of my Tag Heuer Formula One's movement. It was an ETA. I could have just opened it I suppose, but then I would have to get its water resistance checked again after closing it). Unlike many ordinary quartz movements, the 5040.B has an interesting complication that sets it apart from most other movements. The complication is what Ronda calls a "big date" feature. See: Timezone Simply put, instead of just a single rotating date wheel, this movement has two, one for each digit. The result is a comparatively large twin date window that is very prominent on the watch face. In other respects, the movement is very much like most other multi-function chronographs. Accuracy is excellent, as is typical for a quartz movement and the battery life, which is rated at 48 months, is quite good. This particular movement is also used in watches made by Mondaine, Jacques Lemans, and Traser. To my knowledge, the World Traveler at the current price of $249.00 is among the least expensive watches available with the 5040.B movement.

To sum up this review, I think that the World Traveler is an exceptionally fine watch that is well worth its price. I particularly appreciate again having a chronograph that I can use as a worry free daily wearer. (A quartz chronograph should be much more durable than a mechanical model. A few ordinary knocks here and there should not damage one. Servicing is considerably less of an issue too.) This Steinhart appears to be very well made, it uses an interesting movement and it is quite handsome. It really would be an ideal traveling companion.

Zlatoust Diver's Watch

2006-05-19T16:40:00.000-04:00

The awful stock strap

Screw-pin detail

Crown detail

A Type One Movement. It is a Russian made copy of an old American Dueber-Hampden pocketwatch movement,

About three inches from end to end.

Weight lifting :)

According to watch industry buzz, big watches are "in" these days. I regularly hear folks discount 38mm watches as being far too small while the old 34mm standard man's size watch is barely considered large enough for ladies now. Well, if big watches are your cup of tea, I've got the thing for you. The Zlatoust diver's watch is big, really big. I've owned alarm clocks that weren't this big. How big, well its 58mm in diameter (not including the huge canteen crown which brings the overall width to 74mm!), 24mm in thickness (which is thicker than the width of many a ladies watch), the lugs are 24mm wide, lug to lug the watch measures 73mm and the it weighs 10oz. (For those of you who are curious, my wrist measures 7 1/2" around. The watch, as you can see, completely covers it and actually sticks out a bit) Needless to say, this is not the most comfortable watch out there. Frankly, it’s at best clumsy and at worst (on the stock band) downright painful to wear.

The watch itself is undeniably fascinating. I wore it around my law firm one day and at least a dozen people commented about it. No one had ever seen a watch like it and a number of folks actually tried it on. Even people who probably were not all that interested in watches were amazed. The Zlatoust uses a one piece case design (the movement is installed through the front) with an unusual screw-down bezel to hold the thick acrylic crystal tight against a rubber gasket. The watch ships with a sort of rubberized canvas band (complete with CCCP logo) that is possibly the least comfortable watch band I have ever encountered. It is stiff, sticky and does not breathe at all. I suppose the band would make sense if worn over a wetsuit but otherwise, it’s more like a handcuff than a watchband. I currently have my Zlatoust on an old Rhino band I had lying around. It’s still not remotely comfortable but it is wearable. In addition to the odd band, the bezel unscrews completely to allow the wearer to remove the protective grill and place a thicker (included) gasket in its place. The lug pins are of a screwed in type and can be removed with the small screwdriver that also came with the watch. The huge canteen style crown screws down and has a rubber gasket to protect the movement from water. An attached chain keeps the crown from getting lost. The numerals and hands on the watch face are luminous and, in a pleasant surprise, the lume is pretty good. The movement on this model is the same one used in the old First State Watch Factory Type One (reviewed below). It is a 15 jewel hand wound mechanism that must be wound once daily by unscrewing and partially removing the canteen crown cover. I have not actually opened the case to see the movement since this type of case design is tricky to extract a movement from, but the frequency sounds exactly the same as the low-beat tick of my Type One models. The one curious bit of data that I don't have is water resistance. I have fully immersed my watch with no damage but I don't know how deep it can go. I read a post over at watchuseek.com that stated that this watch is not really meant for very deep water at all but is instead meant for prolonged use in shallow water along the lines of a diving bell. I honestly don't know for sure.

The Zlatoust watch factory has an interesting history. During WWII, the one of the Moscow watch factories (I believe it was First State Watch Factory) was evacuated east to Zlatoust in the Chelyabinsk region to avoid being captured or destroyed by the advancing Nazi army. (many other Russian factories were moved this way as well) There, watch and clock production was quickly brought back online. According to the factory, (be patient, the page loads very slowly) over 90 percent of the clocks installed in Soviet tanks and aircraft were made at Zlatoust. After the war, the factory continued to produce all sorts of clocks and watches including stopwatches and this huge diver watch. (As an aside, they don’t just make watches in Zlatoust. This place was also the center of the old Soviet nuclear weapons industry. See: Zlatoust . It is also reputed to be one of the most contaminated places in the world as well. Scary stuff. (Additionally-If you are interested in modern Russian history I recommend reading Andrew Meier's book Black Earth. It is a collection of stories consisting of recent reporting by the author as he traveled throughout Russia. A real eye opener.)

It bears noting that watches like this one appear on frequently ebay and other Russian watch seller’s web pages these days. Many of them are clearly modern reproductions of the Zlatoust diver. Models with the text “700 Meters” on the face or with a centrally located second hand or a subdial are not, to my knowledge, real military diver’s watches. They may be made at the Zlatoust factory, however, but their movements are probably not the old low-beat Type One variety. Additionally, I have heard that modern examples have chrome plated brass cases instead of the solid stainless steel cases the originals used. If you are going to suffer owning one of these, try to get one that is as historically correct as possible. (Mine isn’t perfect either, it doesn’t have the plain back that the real issued ones have). Watches like this are available from a number of Russian watch sellers. I got mine here.

I think it should be obvious from this review that the Zlatoust diver is clearly never going to be anyone’s daily wear watch (That is unless your wrist is over eleven or so inches around. Then it might work for you). Still, I’m very happy to have this beast. It is, without question, the most unusual watch I own and may be the biggest wrist watch ever made. It is also an interesting piece of history. The one thing it is not is boring.

P.S.-Another great review of this watch can be found here

Seiko Monster Review SKX779

2006-03-25T20:32:00.003-05:00

On a nylon band for a change of pace

I wasn't originally going to write this review because it seemed to me that there was nothing much left to say about this excellent watch. However, after living with the Monster for a few weeks now, I just couldn't resist putting my own two cents in.

The Seiko Monster is one of those rare products that rightly seems like it should cost a lot more than it does. From its massive stainless steel case to its big solid-link bracelet everything about the Monster says first class. Its hard to explain it but this watch has that perfectly designed and assembled look about it that sometimes you don't see on watches that cost twice the Monster's price or more. Count on this big Seiko being noticed by anyone who appreciates nice watches. Its really that well done.

Externally, the Monster is 42mm in diameter (not including the crown), 12mm in thickness and has a 20mm band lug width (although the stock bracelet flares out to a width of 24mm thus making the lugs look much wider). The watch is equipped with a very large stainless steel unidirectional diver's bezel (with its own luminous marker embedded) and a screw-down crown. Water resistance is rated at 200 meters and the crystal is made of Seiko's proprietary Hardlex reinforced mineral glass (Hardlex sort of splits the difference between regular mineral glass, which scratches very easily, and sapphire, which is best at resisting scratches but is expensive and can shatter when knocked.) Additionally, it deserves noting that the bracelet on the Monster is exceptionally well done. It is a heavy, solid link design (including solid end-links thankfully) that frankly seems better made than any other watch bracelet that I have ever encountered, irrespective of price. The bracelet uses a double locking clasp and includes a diver's extension. Lastly, the Monster's lume is, far and away, the best light activated lume available anywhere. Expose this watch to light for a little while and it will remain visible in darkness for at least eight hours. It may last longer for all I know but that is as long as I have tested it. With the exception of tritium lume watches (and their lume does lose power over a number of years) the Monster is as good as it gets when it comes to visibility in the dark.

Internally, this Seiko is powered by a 7s26 21 jewel automatic movement. This is a very popular movement among Seiko models and is renowned for its durability and longevity. 7S26s have been known to run reliably for ten years or more with no maintenance and are reputed to be very resistant to abuse. It should be noted that the 7S26 will neither hack or handwind, if those features are important to you. To wind the watch, you just set it and give it a shake. The automatic winding mechanism takes over from there and your normal body motions throughout the day will provide a day or so worth of power at a time. Seiko's automatic winding mechanism is considered to be among the best in the industry. For a detailed explanation of its operation, check out this fine review by The Purists.

All told, it is my personal belief that you can't go wrong with this watch. Truthfully, if I could only own one watch (horrors!), the Monster would likely be it. It has no real weaknesses (the inability to hack or handwind might bother some folks but it has no practical effect on the use of the watch) and it possess loads of strengths. If you want a very high quality watch that will give trouble free service under all conditions for many years, look no further. Best of all, the Monster is a bargain. New examples regularly appear on ebay in the low to mid hundred dollar range, the PMWF Sales Corner seems to regularly have them in stock for very good prices (and Reto and Helen are a pleasure to deal with). I happened to get mine while vacationing in the Philippines at the Seiko store in the Glorietta Mall in Makati (Very nice folks there by the way. Great place to buy a watch.) I really can't sing this one's praises enough.

Vostok Radio Operator Review

2006-03-11T17:23:00.000-05:00

On a newly acquired factory bracelet

The subject of this review, the Vostok Radio Operator watch is one of the new old stock (NOS) models that have been turning up of late on the worldwide tag sale. I got this particular example a few weeks ago in what looked like its original box with the factory paperwork. It did not have a strap, however, and I decided it would look good on a black Nilsen bund (Nilsen incidentally has a great selection of bund style straps for excellent prices. Quality is quite good too.) (For more information on the history of Vostok, check the monthly archives of this site for the Vostok Komandirskie review)
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The watch itself is powered by Vostok's 17 jewel model 2409 hand-wound movement. It uses a thick acrylic crystal, the company's trademark two piece stainless-steel case back, the usual wobbly screw-down crown design (normal for this make), and Vostok's typically awful lume. The watch is rated at 200 meters water resistance but since this is NOS, I wouldn't rely on that figure without having it tested first. This Vostok has the old style octagonal stainless-steel case style that thankfully had nary a mark on it when it arrived. The case measures 38mm in width (42mm including the crown), 12mm in height and has an 18mm lug band width. Like most Vostoks, it has a bi-directional chrome plated bezel but this one also has a luminous marker embedded in it. So far, the watch has run flawlessly, gaining an acceptable 15 seconds daily.
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Until recently, the radio operator was something of a rare bird. Even now, the examples available are apparently all there is of them as the style is not among the many being produced by the Vostok factory today. It is my understanding that the reason for the watch's name is that maritime law requires certain periods of radio silence between ships during which time they are supposed to monitor certain frequencies set aside for distress calls. The time periods in question are marked on the watch face, the first three minutes of each quarter hour. I have read that this system was developed in the aftermath of the Titanic disaster. Apparently at that time, the ship's distress calls were hard to make out amidst all the other signal traffic. For a better explanation of maritime distress communications, see this site.
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In all other respects the Vostok Radio Operator is very typical of most of the company's products. It is rugged, reliable and accurate and makes a fine field watch or daily wearer. Since this is a somewhat unusual model, I don't wear it under less than ideal circumstances the way that I do with newer Vostok models. That is more a reflection of a desire on my part to preserve this watch than a result of concern that it would be damaged easily. I have little doubt, in fact, that the Radio Operator could take all the abuse that I could normally dish out. Final thought, get one while you can.

Update-The top picture shows this Vostok on a factory bracelet. Turns out, the current generation of Vostok Amphibia bracelets will fit these older style Vostoks as well. Unlike a Swiss watch, whose accessories can be unbelievably pricey, this bracelet set me back all of $4 on the world wide tag sale, new in its wrapper by the way. The shipping at $4.50 was more. I think it looks pretty good.

Trias Regulator Review

2006-02-02T21:39:00.000-05:00

The subject of this review, the Trias Regulator, came to me second hand by way of a fellow member of the Poor Man's Watch Forum. With the exception of the strap, which is not original save for the clasp, the watch arrived in virtually new condition (it even still had the protective clear plastic sticker on the back). As such, I think that it fairly represents what a current model would be like for anyone else.
Trias is, apparently, a German company whose watches have generated a fair amount of buzz on a number of watch enthusiast forums. Some Trias models are powered by popular Swiss watch movements like the ETA 2824-2 automatic mechanism and the Unitas hand wound movement while others use movements that are made in China. The latter practice has led to Trias being labeled a "Germasian" brand as their watches say Germany on the face and case back but some of their movements come from Asia. According to one Trias re-seller, the watches have their final assembly and casing done in Germany but the individual components come from all over the world. This, it seems, is acceptable under German trade laws but has led some watch collectors to shun the brand for seeming inauthentic and misleading with its place of manufacture label. I'm not sure I would go that far as many watches use components sourced from other countries but Trias should be more forthright about its products (at the very least name the movement). All the more so in my mind as their watches are not junk at all and would probably be better received by enthusiasts if the details of their manufacture were better disclosed. It is not as though the "Made in China" label has hurt China's trade balance after all and I doubt that a quality watch at a good price would be criticized for it either.
On to the watch itself. This model is a regulator watch, of a style that is not terribly common these days but was at one time considered a good layout for a clock face. I have read that the design was originally meant to make seeing the individual hands easier. (see Timezone Jacques Lemans Review See also here and here) The polished stainless steel case measures 39mm in width (43mm with the crown), 11mm in thickness, 51mm lug to lug and 20mm in band lug width. The watch has a "coin edge" bezel design (which I admittedly find quite attractive) and the face appears to be made of engine turned metal (steel or brass perhaps). As is obvious, the watch has a three-face design arranged vertically as hours, minutes and seconds. The movement is, to my knowledge, a Chinese made Tianjin Seagull TS17 20 jewel automatic that hand winds but does not hack. The domed crystal and display back are made of mineral glass. The see-through display back gives a good view of the movement that is decorated both with Geneva stripes and a rotor engraved with the Trias name. Water resistance is rated at 5atm, and is thus probably not suitable for prolonged exposure to water. Overall, the Trias appears to be very well assembled and everything about it works perfectly. It is also reasonably accurate for a mechanical watch, gaining approximately 20 seconds a day for my example.
My thoughts about this watch are somewhat mixed. It appears to be a well-made watch that offers an upscale complication at a very low price. It is certainly one of the least expensive mechanical regulators available and given my budget, probably the closest I will ever get to one. The mixed aspect of Trias is that the company projects an image of pretentiousness that frankly seems absurd (I really don't think any watch company should behave in such a silly way, irrespective of their heritage and craftsmanship). The musical ebay listings complete with baroque chamber music and the excessive sprinklings of German words in supposedly English language ad copy are simply silly. They are also completely unneeded, the watch is really good enough to stand on its own without all the frills. (In fairness, not all Trias sellers do this. LongIslandWatch.com seems to be a class act in this regard. Their site is largely devoid of the excess that mars much of the other sales listings and they really seem to know the product well.) My final take on the Trias is simply this, look at this watch for the interesting timepiece that it is and ignore the bulk of the ebay marketing (among others) you see. Trias offers a great deal of watch for the money and that is really all that counts.

Tissot PR50 Review

2006-01-19T23:24:00.002-05:00

An October 2010 pic of this one above. Seems to be ageing quite well.

It is always nice to be able to look at a fancy wristwatch and admire its engineering. Whether it be a fine gold case, a multi-jeweled automatic movement or a three face chronograph, there is an undeniable appeal to fine watches. That being said, however, most folks just want to know what the time is. That is what the Tissot PR50 is all about. If you are not impressed by plastic watches and instead just want a solidly built man's wristwatch that will faithfully get the job done, this is your watch.
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Tissot is one of the old, well-established, Swiss watch companies. It was founded by Charles Tissot in 1853, and has been making watches for over 150 years now. The company produces a large and varied line of timepieces that run the gamut from pocket watches to fancy automatic chronographs. These days, the company is a part of the Swatch Group family of watch making companies (like many other well known brands including Omega and Hamilton to name two), but still retains much of its unique character. (For a terrific article about Tissot, see Tissot: Industrial Power)
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The PR50 reviewed here is one of Tissot's quartz models. This particular example is powered by an ETA F06.111 (look under Catalog-Trendline) three-jewel quartz movement. The watch has a hacking feature, date function and an end of life battery indicator (I believe the second hand advances two seconds at a time when power is low). Additionally, the PR50 is water resistant to fifty meters and has a remarkable battery life of ninty-four months (7.8 years). The watchcase measures 38mm in width (including the crown) and 5mm in height. The overall length is 42mm from lug to lug and the PR50 has an 18mm band lug width. The lume on the hands and face is superluminova (which is the best lume available short of tritium tubes) and the crystal is made of sapphire (the best choice to ward off scratches). Lastly, the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel, the bracelet being of the folded link variety (not so nice as a solid link model but quite strong nonetheless). In addition to quartz models like this one, the PR50 line also includes a slightly more expensive model powered by a Swiss 25 jewel automatic movement along with a quartz chronograph and several ladies models.
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All in all, if you are going to own only one watch, the PR50 is really a very good choice. It is well made, quite accurate, reasonably priced, has a very long battery life, and to my eye admittedly, is good looking. It also has the added advantage of being made by a real watch company with a long history of making quality watches. The PR50 is probably not the first choice for dedicated watch collectors, but there is nothing about it that would raise an objection from one either. After all, even a watch collector needs to know what time it is.

2005-12-18T21:58:00.000-05:00

A typical late model Zim Pobeda movement. Note the complete lack of finishing.

A pair of new new ZIM Pobedas

A First Moscow Watch Factory Pobeda. This one was an award watch with an inscribed dedication on the back.

The ZIM Pobeda on a bund strap

2005-12-18T21:57:00.001-05:00

Movement of the Petrodvoretz Pobeda

2005-12-18T21:57:00.000-05:00

The Petrodvoretz Pobeda

2005-12-18T21:56:00.000-05:00

Another picture of The Petrodvoretz Pobeda

2005-12-18T21:55:00.000-05:00

Movement shot from the ZIM Pobeda

2005-12-18T21:54:00.000-05:00

The ZIM Pobeda

Pobeda Review

2005-12-18T21:51:00.000-05:00

If a watch can be said to be the Timex of Russia, I think the Pobeda is it. In the years immediately following the Second World War, the Soviet government found itself in need of a more modern timepiece than the old Type One (reviewed below). With this in mind, some sort of deal was struck with the French watchmaker Lip for the production of a men's wristwatch based on the Lip r26 movement. (For more on Lip see) The result was named Pobeda, meaning victory in Russian (named for obvious reasons). In a curious bit of historical trivia, the name Pobeda was supposedly chosen by Stalin himself (see this page at poljotwatch.com).
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Initially, production of the Pobeda was only done at the First Moscow Watch Factory, but after a few years, the Second Moscow Watch Factory, the Petrodvoretz factory, the Maslennikov (ZIM) factory and the Vostok factory were producing the movement as well. The various factories made a number of modifications to the movement over the years including adding jewels, replacing the sub dial with a central second hand, and adding a hacking feature. The Pobeda has a reputation for being a very durable watch and the movement was still in production until recently by the ZIM factory. It should be noted that in terms of both quality and desirability, Pobedas made by the First Moscow Watch Factory are considered the best, while the ZIM examples are considered the least collectable. Indeed, the latter examples of ZIM movements have a crude, unfinished look about them, unlike the earlier models that had such touches as Geneva stripes and engine turned finishes.
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Of the three examples shown here, the one with the engraved back was made by the First Moscow Watch Factory in 1955 and the other white-faced model was made in the mid-fifties by the Petrodvoretz factory outside St. Petersburg (later to be renamed the Raketa factory after the Sputnik launch). The black model is an early ZIM, also from the fifties I believe. All three are examples of the original style Pobedas with sub dial second hands. They use acrylic crystals and have no lume. The Pobeda movement is a 15 or 16-jewel hand wound type whose accuracy seems to be in the +/- 40-second range although that can be improved on with regulation. Most Pobedas are smaller, traditionally sized, watches of 33mm and 35mm sizes but prior to the bankruptcy of the ZIM factory in the early 2000's, some 38mm Pobedas were made with mineral crystals. Update-The second from the top picture is a newly acquired Pobeda made in 2004, shortly before the ZIM factory went into bankruptcy. The watch has 18mm lugs and a mineral glass crystal but is otherwise ver similar to the other Pobedas. The case measures 36mm including the crown and the movement is completely undecorated. Above that is another NOS model. It too has 18mm lugs but uses an acrylic crystal like the older Pobedas. Cost me all of $13.
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I mentioned that I considered the Pobeda a Russian Timex. The reason I feel this way is entirely a matter of price. Whether the model you are looking at is new old stock or a vintage model from fifty or so years ago, you would be hard pressed to spend more than thirty dollars on a Pobeda. They are about the least expensive mechanical watches I have encountered. I can easily spend more cash on lunch then a Pobeda would run me. The black model pictured here cost me all of nine dollars while its white counterpart set me back a whopping twenty-two dollars. (Pobedas are widely available on ebay. One seller, Zenitar, has a good assortment of inexpensive new old stock models to choose from. Look under the catagory-Other watches. Older models are available from a variety of different sellers.) Now low price is all well and good of course, provided the watch is not a piece of junk. Fortunately, that is not the case with the Pobeda. While no one is about to confuse one with an Omega, a Pobeda does get the job done well without any fuss. The ZIM model here needed regulating when I got it (it clearly had led a pretty hard life) but now is accurate to about 20 seconds a day. The white-faced Petrodvoretz Pobeda needed nothing when I got it, running at about +15 seconds daily. For a pair of inexpensive 50+-year-old watches with little pretension between them, that's not a bad deal at all.
Note-No discussion of the Pobeda would be complete without mentioning Andrew Babanin's fine review over at Timezone.
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Raketa Braille Watch Review

2005-12-08T15:12:00.000-05:00

The Raketa Braille watch is, as its name implies, a watch that is primarily meant for the visually impaired. That being said, however, it can be used like any other watch as well. The watch was manufactured at the Petrodvoretz factory outside of St. Petersburg. Raketa itself has supposedly gone out of business but numerous examples of their watches, including this one, remain available via eBay. Now for the weird part. For a company that supposedly went under in 1995, they seem pretty lively, see: http://pchz.narod.ru/ . The products page seems to have a whole lineup of watches available, including this Braille watch. (The pages loads exceedingly slowly, be patient). There is even a floating clock animation with 2005 in it and a picture of one of Raketa's calendar watches with a date scale running up to 2012. Another page on the site has a watch face with the year 2003 clearly visible on it. I have encountered some speculation that that Raketa never went bankrupt but instead has been trying to create the illusion that their products are scarce to boost prices (see The Raketa Conspiracy Theory). Irrespective, there seems to be a plentiful supply of Raketas available, which, given how nicely this Braille watch is made, is a good thing.
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The Braille watch appears to use a chrome plated case with a snap-on stainless steel back. The case measures 38mm wide at its widest point (diagonally) and is 34mm directly across the face (37mm with the crown). Additionally, the lug width is 18mm. The movement is Raketa's 17 jewel hand wound 2601. The watch is not at all water resistant, a fairly common issue with Raketas. To use the Braille function, a button on the crown releases a spring loaded hinge holding the crystal. The watch hands are made of thick steel and can be handled without fear of bending them. For this reason, there is no second hand. Lastly, the watch face has raised markers to allow reading by touch. It takes a bit of getting used to but the whole thing works quite well. The watch has no lume however.
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I personally find the Raketa to be an attractive and well built mechanical watch. I cannot comment on its precise accuracy as the watch lacks a second hand, but it seems to be good to about a minute or so per week which is really just fine. I particularly appreciate how this watch does not loudly advertise its specialized function. It really looks no different from most other watches and if you didn't already know that this was a watch for the blind, you probably would not guess it. That sort of elegance in design is something that seems sorely lacking to my eye when it comes to products meant for people with disabilities. The fact that the intended user of this watch might never be able to see it is no excuse for making it ugly. Fortunately, Raketa made no such mistake.

First State Watch Factory Type One Review

2005-12-02T19:15:00.000-05:00
A newly acquired Type One. This one is from the First Moscow Watch Factory. It has 15 jewels and was made in 1938. The crown is not original but, otherwise, everything works well. The dial on this one was probably repainted in 1955 in commemoration of the first Soviet mission to the South Pole.

The watch

2005-12-02T19:14:00.000-05:00

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2005-12-02T19:13:00.000-05:00

The 7 jewel movement

2005-12-02T19:11:00.000-05:00

A good read

2005-12-02T19:10:00.000-05:00

The court order authorizing the sale of Dueber-Hampden

2005-12-02T19:09:00.000-05:00

p. 2 court order

2005-12-02T19:08:00.000-05:00

Note the reference to Amtorg

The Review

2005-12-02T18:59:00.000-05:00

I decided to write this review for the fun of it more than anything else. (Note-I had originally titled this review First Moscow Watch Factory Type One. An astute reader at the Watchuseek Russian Watch Forum noted that it was in fact made by the First State Watch Factory, a precurser to the First Moscow Watch Factory. I love knowing these little details. Many thanks.) The Type One, also variously referred to as K-43 and Kirova hasn't been made since the late 40's as far as I know. It is a very interesting watch, however, at least to collectors of Russian watches. This particular model was the first domestically produced watch in Russia. Prior to making the Type One, watch making in Russia was limited to assembling foreign made parts only. Brands such as Mozer and Pavel Bure were made this way. By the late 1920s though, the Russian government saw the need for a domestic watch industry. The story of how Russia acquired this industry is told in the book, "From Springfield to Moscow: The Complete Dueber-Hampden Story" by James Gibbs. (See also here and here as well) (This book is a must read for fans of Russian watches by the way. It even has a copy of the court order authorizing the sale of the company. I have posted the first few pages of the order. If you want the whole thing, let me know and I'll email it to you. ) The book tells the story, from start to finish, of the American Dueber-Hampden watch company. Dueber was bought by the Amtorg Trading Corporation, the foreign purchasing arm of the Soviet government, in 1928 after it had gone out of business in the United States (see here). The factory was then boxed up and shipped to Russia where it was re-assembled and gotten up and running with the help of the company's former employees from the United States. The Americans who went to Russia for this project were tasked not only with making the machinery work but also with training Russian workers in the art of watch making. It seems hard to believe at first that the U.S. and Russia would cooperate this way but it should be recalled that the cold war was decades away and the abuses of the Soviet government were not yet widely known. In any event, the undertaking was evidently successful as watches like the model pictured above were manufactured in quantity.
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The Type One itself is really a pocket watch with a set of 14mm lugs welded on to the case to hold a trench watch style watchband. Remarkably, despite the passage of sixty or seventy years (and the very crude look of the movement), the mainspring is still strong and the watch keeps time well. The movement in this example has only seven jewels but there was a fifteen-jewel model made too. (It is my understanding that this Dueber-Hampden movement was used in the giant Zlatoust diver watch, and either is still being produced or was until recently.)
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Physically, the Type One is huge for a wristwatch. It measures 45mm in width (49mm with the big onion crown) and 14mm in height. The narrow band makes the watch look and wear even bigger. Like many timepieces of this era, water resistance is non-existent. This particular example has obviously had its dial painted long after it was built. (The KGB did not exist until the mid nineteen-fifties and the watch is older than that. A member on the Poor Man's Watch Forum commented that this particular example is a KGB award watch so maybe it is supposed to look this way now. I'm personally not sure and will probably never be.)
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The Type One never fails to draw comments. It has an old-fashioned and unique look to it that you just don't see these days. I can't imagine wearing this one on a daily basis at all but it does make for nice change of pace from time to time. It also makes me think about how strange the world can be. An American watch, manufactured in Russia with the consent of the U.S. and Soviet governments. Amazing.

Vintage Omega Seamaster Review

2005-11-22T11:33:00.000-05:00

One of the downsides of collecting watches is the price of admission. While it’s true that there are a lot of truly fine poor man's watches out there (and there are folks who can convincingly argue that some examples of these bargain models match their pricier counterparts in all respects), the big names don't come cheap. You like Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, etc., bring money and lots of it. A cheap example of one of these will set you back at least six or seven hundred dollars (and that for a quartz model no less), while the good stuff is well up into the thousands of dollars. If, like me, you just don't have that kind of cash to throw around, (my kids and my money go private school), the situation could get really depressing. Fortunately, there is another way go. Take a deep breath, step back and consider the used watch market, or if you like the classier term, vintage market (to make it sound a little less like buying a used car).
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It should be noted that even in the vintage market, some brands hold their value so well that there are few bargains to be had. If you are expecting a Rolex for $200 you will be sorely disappointed. Other brands, however, are very reasonably priced and if you take your time and look around, you can do very well. A few words of caution, however. The fact that a watch is old does not mean that it isn't a fake. The reality is that there are fake vintage watches out there (Seamaster 300 fakes aren't uncommon) and it isn't hard to mistake one for the genuine article. Similarly, there are a lot of so-called frankenwatches (a seemingly acceptable watch that is actually an amalgam of several other watches) floating around. The bottom line is that you should make a point of learning something about the vintage watch you are interested in. With the amount of available data online (Omega, for instance, has an online database of its vintage watches and movements) and the existence of enthusiast forums where one can ask an expert a question, researching a vintage watch isn't terribly hard anymore. Other caveats with a vintage watch, don't assume that the water resistance is functioning and expect the lume to be burnt out. Lastly, make sure that you have access to a competent watchmaker. It is reasonable to expect that a vintage watch will need a cleaning if nothing else. If all of this is too much for you, stick with new watches (not that there aren't plenty of fakes there either though).
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On to the Omega. This particular model is a 1966 Seamaster DeVille. It is powered by a model 611 hand wound movement with a date display. The watch is a traditional sized man's watch, small by today’s standard at 35mm (including the crown) but it still looks quite good. The watchcase is Omega's Unishell design that opens only through the dial side which can make servicing tricky. The crystal is an acrylic one that fortunately was not scratched. The watchband is a Hadley-Roma that I added for about $25. The Omega was very clean when I got it, and when opened, it had a jeweler's date mark on the inside of the case indicating a servicing had been done two years ago. Not surprisingly, the original lume was not functioning.
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The only substantial change that I made to this Omega, aside from adding a strap, was to have the lume re-done by Kent Parks at Everest Watchworks. A non-operative lume on a watch just plain bothers me and Kent is a wizard with this sort of job. Now it looks great, probably better than new considering the advances in lume technology and I am very satisfied with the result. You can't even tell that anything was changed under normal lighting. Only in the dark is the change apparent and even then, in keeping with the watch's character, the lume is just enough to be read. It would look ridiculous if it glowed like a Seiko diver after all.
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Now none of this would really mean much if I had paid through the nose for this Omega. That, thankfully, was not the case. The total bill for the watch, the re-lume, the new band and a thorough look-see by my jeweler came to about $250. All told a good deal.